Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PROBLEM FIXED...for all those wondering timing belt jumped 4 teeth!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....yes i know i dont believe it either...but sure enough we took it apart and bam it was all out...put it back together and she is beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

hi guys

ive got an rb20det r32

it was non turbo auto and is now manual turbo...

everything was going fine...would fry the tyres without any trouble at all!

one day i was driving along and hit a massive bump in the road...

ever since the car has completely changed

its started to miss straight away.....throughout the whole rev range

idle is absolutely disgusting...just missing and rough as...and the worse problem is the car has 0! power....a charade would flog the pants off me...it drives and sounds EXACTLY like and naturally aspirated rb20..deep and throaty sound

BUT ALSO pings like nothing else from about 4k onwards

list of things we have tried

changed cas

changed ignitor

changed coilpacks

changed knock sensor

changed o2 sensor

changed ecu

changed afm

changed plugs

wiggled all wires on the car and it made not difference

inspected turbo

pulled exhaust off

tested fuel pressure

checked boost pressure is running 8psi which it should be

now a couple of weird things!

i retarded the timing as far a it could go...this stopped the pinging a little bit...and allowed the car to rev smoothly...but still is the slowest rb20det on this planet

the only thing we can think of now is that the timing belt jumped a tooth or something ridiculous

does anybody know anything else to try

symptoms again are

VERY slow

pinging

missing

very rough idle

sounds like an NA rb20

car is quieter now to i might add

Edited by heyhey!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167673-extreemly-weird-problem/
Share on other sites

hi guys

ive got an rb20det r32

it was non turbo auto and is now manual turbo...

everything was going fine...would fry the tyres without any trouble at all!

one day i was driving along and hit a massive bump in the road...

ever since the car has completely changed

its started to miss straight away.....throughout the whole rev range

idle is absolutely disgusting...just missing and rough as...and the worse problem is the car has 0! power....a charade would flog the pants off me...it drives and sounds EXACTLY like and naturally aspirated rb20..deep and throaty sound

BUT ALSO pings like nothing else from about 4k onwards

list of things we have tried

changed cas

changed ignitor

changed coilpacks

changed knock sensor

changed o2 sensor

changed ecu

changed afm

changed plugs

wiggled all wires on the car and it made not difference

inspected turbo

pulled exhaust off

tested fuel pressure

checked boost pressure is running 8psi which it should be

now a couple of weird things!

i retarded the timing as far a it could go...this stopped the pinging a little bit...and allowed the car to rev smoothly...but still is the slowest rb20det on this planet

the only thing we can think of now is that the timing belt jumped a tooth or something ridiculous

does anybody know anything else to try

symptoms again are

VERY slow

pinging

missing

very rough idle

sounds like an NA rb20

car is quieter now to i might add

Hi...

where did you say that 'bump' in the road was??....I need my car to be a bit quieter!!! :teehee:

anyway, hope you find a result!!

NA engines usually have a higher compression than turbo engines, id say get it looked at by a mechanic, it wouldnt hurt to have a compression and/or leakdown done on it at least this may give a little comfort as well.

Also there is a couple of things you could check, intercoolet piping and joiners.

Good luck with it

NA engines usually have a higher compression than turbo engines, id say get it looked at by a mechanic, it wouldnt hurt to have a compression and/or leakdown done on it at least this may give a little comfort as well.

Also there is a couple of things you could check, intercoolet piping and joiners.

Good luck with it

Hi DA21 !!

I'd like to know more about your car (if that's ok?)!!...sounds hot and interesting!!!

Superspit!

I'm having a similar problem, I checked the ecu codes and got #11, and #21, crank sensor, and ign. circuit. My engine is a RB20DE conversion to DET and my problem started very similar to yours. Check to see if you have any fouled plugs, my #6 cylinder is not firing at all although the coils and plugs, etc. are fine.

If it cracks between two pistons u wont lose any water or oil it will just have bad compression , u have tried just about every other problem just other thing to look at

Hello,

Just a few suggestions..might have been covered but hope I can be of some help

No noise from the fuel pump.?...could be on the way out.

Fuel filter could be blocked....how does she run at idol?

Could one of your injectors be cracked or become faulty after the knock?

if you have checked these...take it down to a workshop.

Cheers Tekin

hi guys keep the comments coming.....

ok possible it could be blown head gasket...might be somethign to look at last id say

fuel pump is making normal noises...fuel pressure was pretty good!

injectors...very likely i would say...its definatly possible some are clogged

what do people think regarding a timing belt jump???

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...