All You Gt3540 Owners

[lineskee 33]

Settle down fellas. I do have an .82 housing, i know its gonna be laggy but im not going down the path of having a 100hp shot of nitrous on my car. im not that stupid, id prefer to go down the route of upgrading the cams. Its good to see others with somewhat stock internals in their car because thats sorta the answer i was after in the first place. And the reason im running low boost til i get a rebuild is because i have seen first hand what that turbo can do to a stock engine, and i dont want to have a broken engine.

Im trying to decide how much boost to run when i get my tune. when i get the turbo installed. Im not after big hp figures until i get my rebuild. gotta try and keep it safe people. dont want broken engines

[Devils_Advocate21]

Id go for what the/your tuner recomends running, ie: 7psi should do it or maybe 10psi but id talk to your tuner on what he recommends it wouldnt even hurt to list the ammount of k's you have at the moment as well, yes it all comes down to tune but one thing you have to take into effect is age/life the motor has done already, yes it has been proven already big hp can be had with stocko motors with the right tune in affect many times over, then again, it also has been well in my case it happened it went bang well the little end baring did on a basic 11psi with a hks 3037 turbs with 130 on the clock, although i did get a compression/leakdown done before i went ahead they turned out pretty good but still it let go. I guess time will tell with what will happen when you take the path and bolt it all on any way, but at the end of the day it never hurts to budjet for those quote "Shit happens" moments in life

Talk to your tuner, hopefully a reliable tuner and just say what you have what you want ie "Safe and conservative tune, with power but mean time reliability" what he recommends etc etc..... and good luck.

Most engine breaks stock of non stock usually come down to the tune in most cases, but doesnt safe guard from unexpected things that happen along the way.

Cheers

A

[2rismo]

And if you paid attention instead of looking at my arse to see where the info comes from you would have noticed that he has a .82 housing. He has also stated that he cant be arsed about lag so I guess its all moot.

Exhaust housings are cheap, readily available from Garrett and others who are changing theirs and one of the easiest things to swap out there. Not having to re-buy a turbocharger down the track because you've decided you want more power can outweigh the less than ideal lag in any case and as he's said already, he doesn't care. I've driven 4 x std RB25 R33 GTST's with GT35's ranging in rear cover size from .63 to 1.06 (my own) and have come to the conclusion that they're a fantastic turbo for these motors for both street and race use. They're loads of fun and offer a bunch more potential than a high flow or similarly sized unit.

Spitting out a bunch of brand name parts just for the hell of it and claiming that they're required is just nonsense as proved by many many users on here and elsewhere. When giving advice, try to deal in fact.

[frankxinyu]

i know of a stock rb25 with a 3540 on it...hes been wanting to race me for the last year..i reckon it wont be long till he breaks something like Noel suggested. i also believe in staying on the safe side.

powr wise, i dont know why, he only made 34X RWHP on 12psi....not much more power than what i make on my stock turbos

[FineLine]

Exhaust housings are cheap, readily available from Garrett and others who are changing theirs and one of the easiest things to swap out there. Not having to re-buy a turbocharger down the track because you've decided you want more power can outweigh the less than ideal lag in any case and as he's said already, he doesn't care. I've driven 4 x std RB25 R33 GTST's with GT35's ranging in rear cover size from .63 to 1.06 (my own) and have come to the conclusion that they're a fantastic turbo for these motors for both street and race use. They're loads of fun and offer a bunch more potential than a high flow or similarly sized unit.

Spitting out a bunch of brand name parts just for the hell of it and claiming that they're required is just nonsense as proved by many many users on here and elsewhere. When giving advice, try to deal in fact.

So from this sage advice we can assume that against all principles of turbo/engine matching you would reccomend a 700 horsepower turbo for a 250 horsepower engine.

And no. housing are not cheap. go price one. A guy pays 14/1500 hundred for a near new 35/40 and then has to spend another 5/6 hundred for a housing and thats cheap, I think not given that the turbo can be had new for around the 17/18 hundred mark.

Like it or not dude that turbo is designed to be used in conjunction with that mod list. As others have already stated, they tried it on stock internals and had fun for a while. Till it blew. There is nothing to stop anybody from doing it. It is just common sense not to when there are less expensive and better matched and suited options available that will still give great performance without risking an engine.

[Revhead]

So from this sage advice we can assume that against all principles of turbo/engine matching you would reccomend a 700 horsepower turbo for a 250 horsepower engine.

I agree with what you're saying, but from what I've gathered, the original poster has no intentions of leaving it as a 250-odd hp engine. It'll be laggy as fark without a smaller housing, it may or may not blow up, but from what he's said he's accepted those things.

I wouldn't do it this way personally, for a lot of the reasons Noel has already mentioned. That said, I'd still buy the turbo setup, but I'd also buy another RB25 and build that one. When it's ready, drop it in and budget for a sudden decrease in the life of your rear tyres

[Devils_Advocate21]

This has gone far far off the original topic of

Hi, just a question to all the people who have a garrett gt3540 on their rb25. please post up what you have done to your engine and mods. and the power you are making at what boost.

Im soon taking the step of putting one onto my car and im interested to know how everyone elses goes.

Its turned into a battle of noel vs 2rismo, Plus the facts outweight fiction, It has been proven on the stock motor of many sized turbos and have lasted a fairly long time before breaking, Driving style and the most important "Tuning" comes down to how long it will take. Thats the end of the argument of large turbos on stock engines, He clearly asked what mods have "YOU" done to your engine and the power "YOU" are making at what boost, "edited" , By the way hp out put of the turbo is only a rough guide anyway its not true values, its x housing size and x psi gives you y power(rougly) read the comressor/turbine maps doesnt take limiting factors in respone with other mods etc etc, you get what i mean plus the rb engines are far from the 250hp engine mark. Hence why this topic should have clearly been left or put in the Forced Induction area, as there are many many better responses and answers clearly on the ball of what you are asking there lineskee

Cheers That is all

Vote 1 to clean thread and move to FI section

[FineLine]

This has gone far far off the original topic of

Its turned into a battle of noel vs 2rismo, Plus the facts outweight fiction, It has been proven on the stock motor of many sized turbos and have lasted a fairly long time before breaking, Driving style and the most important "Tuning" comes down to how long it will take. Thats the end of the argument of large turbos on stock engines, He clearly asked what mods have "YOU" done to your engine and the power "YOU" are making at what boost, "edited" , By the way hp out put of the turbo is only a rough guide anyway its not true values, its x housing size and x psi gives you y power(rougly) read the comressor/turbine maps doesnt take limiting factors in respone with other mods etc etc, you get what i mean plus the rb engines are far from the 250hp engine mark. Hence why this topic should have clearly been left or put in the Forced Induction area, as there are many many better responses and answers clearly on the ball of what you are asking there lineskee

Cheers That is all

Vote 1 to clean thread and move to FI section

This is not a battle between me or anybody else. its a play for good advice for a guy asking for just that.

As for engines lasting a fairly long time. Define a fairly long time. Is a year a good run, 2 years. 6 months, any of these numbers are unacceptable to my way of thinking when it can be done differently and made to last as long as it should with correct maintainence.

Yes the horsepower rating of the turbo is only a rough guide but when you are several hundred horsepower away from the recco I dont think that statement holds water.

Just how far away from my suggested 250 hp would you say a near stock rb25 engine is Adam. I would suggest that 250 is about right on the money given that i own such an engine and you have seen it dyno'd.

As for where this topic is, Hes a queenslander and so are we, why shouldnt he ask it in here. Why else even have this section. Lets just put up the qld events section so we know whats going on and delete all the rest. I rather like the idea of discussion among those of a similar locale. Eventually we get to meet and compare notes in the flesh.

[lineskee 33]

I guess the reason I asked what people had on their engines was because I wanted to get a fair idea of a power : mod ratio using a 3540. At the moment I have stock internals, I am going to get the turbo installed with all the relevant bolt on bits needed aswell to be able to have that setup. Im definantly going to take it up with my tuner to decide on what power and psi i should be running, but i wanted to get a fair idea of what everyone else was getting aswell if they are in the same boat as me.

Is there anyone who hasnt blown up their engine using a 3540 on stock internals? hahaa. I do understand if you want such a turbo on an rb25 you need the proper parts to make it run reliably or its not even worth doing in the first place. Otherwise you end up with a reliable rb25 lag monster.

So why the hell did I want to get such a large turbo when i could have went out and bought one of those awesome highflow turbos? The answer is simple, i got the 3540 and the entire setup really cheap and thats exactly what i wanted to make the power i want.

My turbo was off my mates car who was running 19psi which did end up blowing the engine because of apparent oil pump failure. internals were pretty much total stock apart from the forged pistons in it. Im not wanting to go down the same path by blowing up my engine, thats why I want to keep it safe until i can get the engine rebuilt, and then still i will have it on a safe tune.

Thanks for everyones input on this topic, I guess it comes down to each persons opinion on what should be done to an engine to make reliable power, but please feel free to add whats been done to your car as i originally requested in this topic.

Oh and for posting this in the Queensland section, I didnt realise where i was posting. And I dont mind if it stays in the Queensland section because Queensland rules. But if moderators think it should go to the FI section then so be it.

thanks people.

[GeeTR]

Seems like the story of the hardworking monkey with the massive tree house, that got perturbed when the the other monkeys said a similarly homey, comfy tree house could be made, a lot smaller, much easier ...it just had to be lived in differently

Dude, its all in the tune / use / boost

I wouldn't recommend tracking it. Just use it as a fun ( read: handicapped) street car, till you get the cash. If it pops, catch a bus and take a loan LoL

[HypeR33]

Settle down fellas. I do have an .82 housing, i know its gonna be laggy but im not going down the path of having a 100hp shot of nitrous on my car. im not that stupid, id prefer to go down the route of upgrading the cams. Its good to see others with somewhat stock internals in their car because thats sorta the answer i was after in the first place. And the reason im running low boost til i get a rebuild is because i have seen first hand what that turbo can do to a stock engine, and i dont want to have a broken engine.

Im trying to decide how much boost to run when i get my tune. when i get the turbo installed. Im not after big hp figures until i get my rebuild. gotta try and keep it safe people. dont want broken engines

To get this back on topic...I have a 3540 with a .82 rear housing on a standard bottom end running 15psi for 411rwhp. Has been running this setup now for over a year without a hiccup. All supporting mods including cams, just no rebuild. Full boost by about 4500 which still allows for a lot of fun. I did this thinking the same thing. If it popped then I would rebuild it, but so far...no need.

As GeeTR said...a good tune is the most important thing along with a motor that is still in good condition when this is all done...oh, and of course being sensible with the boost. Try and put 24psi through it and you will destroy it pretty quick.

Cheers,

JB

[2rismo]

FineLine, you do realise that you're the only one in this thread talking about a 250hp engine don't you? Not even the thread starter has implied power goals yet you seem determined to enforce them.

As for:

Like it or not dude that turbo is designed to be used in conjunction with that mod list.

Well.......dude, Garrett don't spec engines so this statement is clearly nonsense. How about people who have experience with the exact setup that the thread starter is describing reply with their experiences? After all, isn't that what they asked for?

I await your considered personal experience and/or dyno sheet to follow. I'm going back to the workshop to help successfully fit yet another GT35 to an internally stock RB25.

Adrian

[timma]

who cares about lag..... saves fuel around town and makes sure you only give it a squirt in area approiate instead of down the main street

[ahh 33 s2]

well i want a 3540 as well on a stock engine(please dont hate me for it)

can this turbo be mounted on the stock manifold or is it a high mount turbo only??

also can it be used with the stock oil/water lines or does all that need to be replaced

also are they only externaly gated turbos???

just answers would be nice... enough arguing boys

[Cubes]

Bunch of girls.. lag lag lag.

Feel for the rb20det owners don't start singing until 4500-5000rpm to push a measily 250+rwkw. :S

RB30 POWA.. gt35r = ~3500rpm and still more power everywhere than a rb25 running its stock rb25 turbo all tuned @ 200rwkw.

[lineskee 33]

Ah thanks HypeR33, you were the answer i was looking for. You have almost an identical setup to mine nearly, accept the cams. I can sleep better tonight knowing there is another car out there that is capable of doing what i want to do with stockish internals.

Are there any more people out there with a setup like HypeR33?

I totally agree that the tune really depends on the life span of an engine. thats why im going to get the best/ safest tune possible on my car.

[series2r33]

And no. housing are not cheap. go price one. A guy pays 14/1500 hundred for a near new 35/40 and then has to spend another 5/6 hundred for a housing and thats cheap, I think not given that the turbo can be had new for around the 17/18 hundred mark.

Why wouldnt he just but a GT3540 with the .63 exhaust housing from the start?! And then sell the one he already has if he would like to reduce the lag a bit and get out of it way cheaper. This link shows that u can get the GT3540's with the 0.63, 0.82, 1.06 rear housings.

http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=311

[3wilson3]

Why wouldnt he just but a GT3540 with the .63 exhaust housing from the start?! And then sell the one he already has if he would like to reduce the lag a bit and get out of it way cheaper. This link shows that u can get the GT3540's with the 0.63, 0.82, 1.06 rear housings.

http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=311

standard 25 bottom end

plazma man plenum

intercooler

bosch fuel pump

surge tank

740cc injectors

splitfire coils

gt-35 with .82 rear housing

42mm tial wastegate

316rw/kw @16psi