Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Or people could just get their own manifold converted, or SAU could have a donation plenum, which would get converted to front facing, then their own plenum would become the donated one. BTW the rb20det is not the same as rb25det. By the way, if your looking for something sexy thatll look good at car shows etc, the converted plenum probably isnt for you, there are greddy ones that probably are.

Yar, but you would be wanting some coin in exchange right? thats usually when the word Keen is used.

SST Steve, how much are these plenums retailing for? Do they just fit on factory runners? Do they have trumpets or utilise angles ? If there is one for the rb20 ill be interested in the future.

Cheers

LOL

anyways fellas I have Pmed both gradenko and R33 impul so all is good. Gradenko lets hope the budget holds out, no cyclones on the horizon up in the northen suburbs

thanks for all the input

i think that it seems like such a simple idea and such an easy install in terms of simplicity, it is difficult to reach but not alot can really go wrong from looking at it hey.

Anyways this can be closed if needed,

hey steve whazz the cost the for the per4manz ones

with the amount of engineering GReddy and other intake plenum designers put into their plenums one would have to assume that simply relocating the throttle body isnt going to work quite as well. but on a budget there isnt anything else

youve also got to ask yourself what saving 1-1.5m of piping is really worth with reference to a cut n shut job

youve also got to ask yourself what saving 1-1.5m of piping is really worth with reference to a cut n shut job

IMHO, yes, its definetly worth removing 1m or so of piping, even if its means using a cut'n'shut. In any case, I'll post a objective review after its done. Specifically looking at power gain after tuning (if any) and change in throttle response. Could also put it on a flowbench to check flow distribution. Anyone know of a place that'll do it at mates rates?

Take a look at 1JZ and 2JZ plenums. From the outside they look remarkably similar to our cut'n'shut job.

its the length of the runner relative to the original position comapared to the relocated position thats important though

ie nissan designed cylinder 1 and 6 (the ones people question) to be the same distance from throttle body, cut n shut the plenum and now its completely different

I'm not convinced Nissan went to any great lengths designing that plenum. Sure, it worked out well that air flow distribution was equal, but it seems to me their number one design goal was shortening the distance from ic to tb. The inside of the stock plenum doesn't have any special deflectors or flow distributors (AFAIK), and like I mentioned, there doesn't seem to be anything stopping it from behaving like a JZ plenum.

Just in case, I'll clean and flow the injectors, installing the highest flow for cylinder 6 (cause its most likely to run lean) and lowest flow for cylinder 1.

Originally posted by Steve-SST

Per4manz now have new custom plenums for RB25s.

Heya Steve how much are they charging for these off the top of your head? do you think they would do an sau discount or something if a few were interested?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...