Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i work with carbon and you can repair it. its a prick of a job if u want the carbon to still be clear. if you just need a fix and not a clear finish fix, prob cost like 200 plus paint, clear finish like 600 plus paint. a clear finish needs extra time take to align the weave of the carbon, extra time ti not distort the carbon, time to re clear the entire bonnet so the corners dont look out of place with nice new clear resin and most expensive of all, tryin to find some 1 who will take the time to do it, so thats y ull pay through the nose if u want a clear finish.

IMO, get it repaired, and instead of spraying, there is new contact type carbon stuff you can get, ive seen many items wrapped in it, no distortion or defects visible, then ppl apply like 3 coats of 2 pac clear and it gives the piece a deep clear coat and awesom carbon finish.

speak to abcent on the forum and get him to show you his drift wing. when he got it, it looks like carbon and will fool almost every1 out there, other than ppl like myself that work with the shit and know the diff.

hope this helps ya out

um not 100% sure of places that would be reliable enough to do a clear carbon repair, they are very much butchers most places. i work in the aircraft industry so we have to be more precise.

if u plan to spray, any panel beater can do it.

but otherwise um.... try looking in teh yellow pages. really dont know man.

i work with carbon and you can repair it. its a prick of a job if u want the carbon to still be clear. if you just need a fix and not a clear finish fix, prob cost like 200 plus paint, clear finish like 600 plus paint. a clear finish needs extra time take to align the weave of the carbon, extra time ti not distort the carbon, time to re clear the entire bonnet so the corners dont look out of place with nice new clear resin and most expensive of all, tryin to find some 1 who will take the time to do it, so thats y ull pay through the nose if u want a clear finish.

IMO, get it repaired, and instead of spraying, there is new contact type carbon stuff you can get, ive seen many items wrapped in it, no distortion or defects visible, then ppl apply like 3 coats of 2 pac clear and it gives the piece a deep clear coat and awesom carbon finish.

speak to abcent on the forum and get him to show you his drift wing. when he got it, it looks like carbon and will fool almost every1 out there, other than ppl like myself that work with the shit and know the diff.

hope this helps ya out

Hey Cheez, what sort of resin do they use with the carbon, i have a small chip in the edge of my bonnet i'd like to fix.

from a personal note, i work in the aircraft industry so i got access to some of the best resins and repair materials that are out there. but like plynx said any good resin will do the job, see the guys at FGI and get them to mail you out a small container and catalyst. like $30 for a small job like your talking.

  • 3 weeks later...
we do repairs on cf aero parts from $220 it will come out 80-99%

After you have repaired it, if it's the cheaper type bonnet (layer of carbon on top and the rest f/glass) you need bonnet pins. The only legal ones I know of are the Ford GT type that countersink into the bonnet, or similar

I got defected for my bonnet pins sticking up......never said a word about the c/f bonnet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...