Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I choose:

lack of rear end grip

pushing to hard

You have loads of talent and have heaps of experience, I think and have heard that eastern creek can be a bit of a hard unforgiving track :domokun:

But atleast you know what the contributing factors were....its just one of those random ghey things :(

Rubbing is racing :D

ahh, you know just what to say :):)

yeah, EC can bite you hard. my friend did $80K damage to his porsche there at turn one. another friend pretty much wrote off his car there too and most track days I see one or two bad smashes. some of the walls are quite close to the track. inside wall at turn 1, and outside wall at 10/11/12 are all very close, in fact outside wall at 6/7 is pretty nasty too. hell they all are. and all concrete. :(

well I will try and drag myself out to Oran park GP this wednesday so if anyone wants to come out there is a reasonable probability of me making a fool of myself. entry is free, but must pay for drinks afterwards if I bin it again.

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Do not worry Richard " It'll buff out"

I am gld it is only a minor ding as it could have been a lot worse at that speed.

Makes me remember the double 360's I did comming out of turn 4 and seeing a lot of close white walls. Luckly for me I did not hit anything.

I would leave the damaged bar on as it gives the car some cred.

Some shoe polish should buff that right out :wacko:

I'm surprised it took until page 2 for someone to say that.. although maybe it was all the "suspense" on page 1 :)

fatz calls everyone a pussy, and he's usually right. but good on you for giving it some stick - to have a scrape you were obviously pushing pretty hard and to have a minor scrape means, like already said, that you have done something right to avoid having a bigger one!! :P

Do not worry Richard " It'll buff out"

I am gld it is only a minor ding as it could have been a lot worse at that speed.

Makes me remember the double 360's I did comming out of turn 4 and seeing a lot of close white walls. Luckly for me I did not hit anything.

I would leave the damaged bar on as it gives the car some cred.

Oh wow you have done it as well :)

sadly times were nothing special. Had only done about 12 laps, and only about 2 clear ones (lots of slow traffic). still good enough for 11th. It was annoying as I had just got the pressure stable-ish and was getting quicker every lap. :( I also have what I think is a badly slipping transfer case. out of corners the revs are flaring. sounds like either clutch slip or wheelspin, but it doesn't have the symtoms of clutch slip (I can't make it happen in a straight line at all) and the attitude of the car doesn't change (so not wheel spin, unless it's very slight). so I'm going to have to have a good look at that. probably would have been quicker in rwd!

I'm surprised it took until page 2 for someone to say that.. although maybe it was all the "suspense" on page 1 :(

fatz calls everyone a pussy, and he's usually right. but good on you for giving it some stick - to have a scrape you were obviously pushing pretty hard and to have a minor scrape means, like already said, that you have done something right to avoid having a bigger one!! :(

I said it on page 1!!! >.<

Who the hell reads sau on 20 posts per page! it gets to big then!

Bah, you gotta find your limits somehow. Glad it hasn't put you off at all.

I can hear a new quote now oz "GTR Baron slide out!"

Not quite, I worked on Bailey last night until he got it right.

"GTT adam spin out, but GTR Baron Smashes out, oooooohhhhhh crrraaassshhhh!!!!!!"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...