Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cylinder 5 in my car melted a plug. got it checked out, compression test, told compression is really low and that more than likely piston cracked. Im sure this problem occured after my fuel pump stuffed up as car was runnin lean. i have to drop the motor and tear it apart to find out exact problem and extent.

so anyways im asking how much will it cost approx to get something like this fixed?? and is it worth fixing or buy another motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168671-cracked-piston-on-my-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

yeh pistons, bore it out, head gasket, new bearings, new cam belt, idler and pulley, gasket kit, water pump...

theres some basics.

i weighed this up when i blew up my missus wrx (and yes i rebuilt my r33 aswell lol), the thing with a second hand engine is you dont know the history of it and how long before something goes wrong. rebuilding costs a touch more (shop smartly and do research) but you have a mega strong engine and you know exactly whats happened to it. the piece of mind that you have a mega strong brand new engine is very comforting.

mate, how long is a piece of string. how much money you wanna spend, power goals etc. there's no perfect answer.

if you just wanna get it runnign again, a pallet motor will be the cheapest - maybe 2k from the wreckers. Everytime i'm at the wreckers, the motors seem to be in crap condition though - all dirty, been sitting outside not covered etc.

BillyE here on my bros username.

We will take the motor out ourselves, strip it to just the full block and then have someone work on it.

From what we can tell her, it seems the best idea is to rebuild it, really not interested in purchasing another motor at this stage.

for a realistic budget, say 2-3k, is it possible to get some forgies, after market head gasket etc, or should we be sticking to a standard build.

Say the budget is 2.5k, what can we get out of that in terms of rebuild?????

Thanks for your time and appropriate responses in advance.

ahhhh...

wiseco pistons 1100 del,

trust head gasket 440,

acl race bearings 140,

cam belt 110,

idler pulley bearigs 110,

full gasket kit 200-300,

water pump 40,

thermostat 70,

thats what i paid for my parts than you have machining costs too

BillyE here on my bros username.

We will take the motor out ourselves, strip it to just the full block and then have someone work on it.

From what we can tell her, it seems the best idea is to rebuild it, really not interested in purchasing another motor at this stage.

for a realistic budget, say 2-3k, is it possible to get some forgies, after market head gasket etc, or should we be sticking to a standard build.

Say the budget is 2.5k, what can we get out of that in terms of rebuild?????

Thanks for your time and appropriate responses in advance.

f**k all?

You well get the block decked and head machined right? Do you want to use this chance to get more power from the engine or just rebuild it stock so it works? To crack test and machine the head your looking at 1k, then you got to get your parts.

Head gasket

Pistons and Rings

Rods

Bearings

Idler and Pully

Adjustable cams? Is it a S1 or S2 Skyline? S1 only need the 1 aftermarket cam gear and S2 have 2.

Timing belt

Etc etc

You will need to make a decision if you're buying stock parts to get it going or forgies to make it stronger and get a bit more power and go faster. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

Then you need to allocate money for when it stuffs up. You'll need a service not long after it is back in and running, new filters, oil obviously, and for Motul you could be looking at another $250 if you want engine and box oil.

Put it this way, I put aside 5k for my rebuild back when my engine blew up in May 06, so far I have spent 5k x3 + some and the car still isn't on the road. Choose who you get to do the work carefully and only take it to a reputable dealer who has experience in what you want done. It might cost more initially but in the long run it's a God send.

Good luck with it!!

f**k all?

You well get the block decked and head machined right? Do you want to use this chance to get more power from the engine or just rebuild it stock so it works? To crack test and machine the head your looking at 1k, then you got to get your parts.

Head gasket

Pistons and Rings

Rods

Bearings

Idler and Pully

Adjustable cams? Is it a S1 or S2 Skyline? S1 only need the 1 aftermarket cam gear and S2 have 2.

Timing belt

Etc etc

You will need to make a decision if you're buying stock parts to get it going or forgies to make it stronger and get a bit more power and go faster. Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

Then you need to allocate money for when it stuffs up. You'll need a service not long after it is back in and running, new filters, oil obviously, and for Motul you could be looking at another $250 if you want engine and box oil.

Put it this way, I put aside 5k for my rebuild back when my engine blew up in May 06, so far I have spent 5k x3 + some and the car still isn't on the road. Choose who you get to do the work carefully and only take it to a reputable dealer who has experience in what you want done. It might cost more initially but in the long run it's a God send.

Good luck with it!!

ouch phee thats bad, 5k x3....you must be pissed lol i prob spent 5k all up and that included suspension, turbo, engine lol, helps when my rebuild cost me $500 labour but haha i love knowing the right ppl

ouch phee thats bad, 5k x3....you must be pissed lol i prob spent 5k all up and that included suspension, turbo, engine lol, helps when my rebuild cost me $500 labour but haha i love knowing the right ppl

Thanks for rubbing it in :laugh:

Where are you located? I might know a few good w/shops in your area that you can get advise from.

Unless you're aiming for over 250rwkw, I'd say 2nd hand motor would be the best option. I dont' like the idea of buying questionable condition motors from the wreckers.

Having siad that though, they do have WARRANTY!

many people have no dramas with the stock motor at 250 rwkw. cheapest option and it'll have you running in almost no time.

ouch phee thats bad, 5k x3....you must be pissed lol i prob spent 5k all up and that included suspension, turbo, engine lol, helps when my rebuild cost me $500 labour but haha i love knowing the right ppl

Just the bare bottom end inc. forged pistons, crack test everything, slightly more expensive king HP bearings, block decked, rods resized, oil drain mods, gaskets, mls headgasket & heinz balanced cost me 3.6k. I was quite happy with that, probably similiar in costing to yours + I had a few extra bits done that really didn't need doing. :dry:

cheap option, you maybe able to drop the oil sump, pull out the piston, and replace the one. if its still a bit low on compression, sell it and get a new car :dry:

i guess thats one reason why i compression tested my last car before i bought it :)

my mate blew something in his sr20. replaced it to similar specs, and his car was never the same again , just didnt have the same power. has happened to another friend with a different turbo engine.

i spun a bearing in my sr20, spent a bit for a built forged bottom end, put it back together and it was laggier than before, -i didnt have the money to go all out with a better turbo etc. i sold the car soon after fixing it.

my point is, a lot of money is at stake, you have a lot of options. explore them, get estimates from shops, look at your funds and goals

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...