Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle At 100k

rpms

By rpms,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

rpms Contributor

rpms

Posted
Posted

hey guys i have an 97 stagea and im wonderig what the norm is for idleing on the highway? at around 100 to 110ks mine sits on 3 grand.... just seems to high.... feels like the auto needs to drop back.

have had it to the auto shop and hooked it up to the scanners. everythings doing what it is supposed to. was told that it could be the tps switch that might need adjusting. adjusted it in increments to no success. weird thing is it has an open centre in it?? thought it would run an lsd???

any other ideas.???

also the 4wd doesent work. havent even looked into this problem yet. where do i start????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168724-idle-at-100k/
Share on other sites
Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

do a search in the general automotive section, I remember seeing a DIY in there about reseting idle and it had something to do with an air bleed on the plennum.

Mine (was) at 2500 - 2600 at 100kph and I have 17" on 45 series and a stock as a rock auto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168724-idle-at-100k/#findComment-3117996
Share on other sites
Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

thats a real worry - has the attessa pump got any fluid in it?

It may just need bleeding, but I would have a close look at it if I were you. Running the pump and/or transfer case dry (if that is the problem) can get very expensive. Usually, the only way to get a stagea to run in RWD only is to drop the front driveshaft out - the old "just pull the 4WD fuse" doesn't really work and can actually cause damage if left like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168724-idle-at-100k/#findComment-3118075
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
Mines auto and sits just on 2500. Worked out it does just on 40k/1000 when the converter is locked up. Am running 17"

225/50/17 Federal595'

Just a further on this.

I got wacked twice for "exceeding the speed limit" but concluded the checking methods were suss. No charges.

I run a general rule, 10, 20, 30, 40 kph/1000rpm in 1st, 2nd 3rd OD. Around the Mountain (town) I now popthe OD to OFF.

Keep to 2000 and no dramas. Thats what I do.

It is interesting to see that there is quite a difference between various owners. you would have to check on the final drive ratio

and the actual diameter of your wheels to see exactly where each vehiclewas at. And if auto that the converter actually does lock up.

My old RMR30 (used to) did 50k/1000, locked up. Couldn't get her started for her final triptoday. I think she knew.

She used to peak about 4250. But the RMR30 were a very slippery vehicle and had one of the lowest coefficients of drag

factors of most cars of its time. It is what made them fast, not quick, fast.

So there are a lot of factors that govern the revs/km. All aspects have to be taken into consideration.

Owning a NIssan is such fun. I have five. Well four after today.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168724-idle-at-100k/#findComment-3119526
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iamhe77
      Might import a stagea

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • iamhe77
      Stagea identification?

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...