Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I just had my new exhaust fitted to my R34 GTT today!

It consists of:

3" Split Dump/Front pipe supplied by BOS Importing (BATMBL)

3" > 5" > 3" high flow Catco CAT (200csi cell - 706.2 CFM) supplied by BOS Importing (BATMBL)

3.5" X-Force Cat back section with oval resinator

3.5" Inlet > 7" Cannon > 4.5" Outlet X-Force Muffler

All stainless steel mandrel bent... very shiney! lol

Total Cost was $1634 for supply, freight and fitting all up.

Noticable differences:

- Turbo Spools much louder

- Boost comes on quicker

- Car is quicker through 1st - 4th

- Cannon looks much better out the back... big and shiney lol

- BOV seems a bit louder

- Exhaust is louder, but not overdone because of oval resinator rather than hotdog

- Exhaust sounds very nice when cruising or with no throttle (drone)

- Exhaust is definately not illegally loud, and comes with silencer also

Recommendations:

- Get the hotdog resinator if you want it really LOUD

- Probably not worth the extra $100+ for the highest flowing CAT (Not much noticable difference)

Hope this helps anyone looking at getting an exhaust!

Thanks.

post-22399-1179287789_thumb.jpg

post-22399-1179287844_thumb.jpg

post-22399-1179287887_thumb.jpg

post-22399-1179287914_thumb.jpg

Edited by BeAgLe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168773-new-exhaust-for-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

mate you just answered all my questions. I am looking to get an exhaust with the exact same specs. Who fitted it for you?

Get some pics up mate. Also how much did the xforce catback cost you? Ive got a quote for $800 fitted

Edited by traman18
Hey man,

I got the whole system fitted locally on the sunshine coast for $185.

The X-FORCE cat back section was $699 + $40 freight.

Hope this helps!

Thanks.

fark... i hope it last longer than my s13 one..... it was shit the hangers are way povo. You could have got a trust system for that money.

Edited by URAS
  • 1 month later...

maybe the higher flowing cat would only come into play with other mods that up the kws? any other thoughts?

or maybe i'm just trying to justify my iminent purchase of the same 3-5-3 catco you got. i figure it's a bit of future security.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...