Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

Ive just noticed the last couple of times i drove my car it was difficult to select 2nd gear. the clutch isnt more than 1 yr old and the gearbox was rebuilt 11 months ago. im not too sure if my clutch is on its way out or not. i do drive hard sometimes.

how often do i need to change the gearbox oil and soforth? 5 speed manual r33 gtst. exedy organic heavy duty clutch.

need advice.

thanks in advance :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169125-hard-to-select-2nd-gear-when-cold/
Share on other sites

hi all,

Ive just noticed the last couple of times i drove my car it was difficult to select 2nd gear. the clutch isnt more than 1 yr old and the gearbox was rebuilt 11 months ago. im not too sure if my clutch is on its way out or not. i do drive hard sometimes.

how often do i need to change the gearbox oil and soforth? 5 speed manual r33 gtst. exedy organic heavy duty clutch.

need advice.

thanks in advance :laugh:

What gearbox oil are you using?

Could it be due to the weather cooling and the oil thickening?

How old is your slave cylinder? (underneath on driver side of gearbox)

I fitted a new slave cylinder, fresh clutch fluid and had it all bled and it was like I just had a brand new clutch fitted, that's how big of difference it made.

If you havent got it already, try putting synthetic oil in your gearbox. Synthetic oils perform much better a low (and high) temperatures than minerals. I havent had any sticking since i switched to redline light shockproof in my tired old box. Shockproof is not suitable for a recently rebuilt box tho.

gearbox was built from scratch 11 months ago. i'l change the gearbox fluid and clutch fluid n see how it all goes

11months is nothing. It should still be perfectly fine unless your master or slave cylinder is bleeding off a little resulting in poor travel.

---------

Not saying this is the case in your circumstance but I had a gearbox rebuilt for $1200 including in/out labour (VS 5ltr 5speed) some years ago as first gear was popping out and I didn't have the time to do it myself.

I requested everything to be replaced, all bearings and syncro's as the box had a little layshaft rattle. (I've rebuilt box's before I know what sounds are coming from where)

Upon receiving the gearbox it still had the layshaft rattle; I questioned the people and they told me it was a load of crap and couldn't hear the layshaft rattle when it was as clear as daylight. He also told me they send the gearbox's off to a specialist to rebuild. So that was that.

A few months later at a party I met a bloke and we got talking. He mentioned they do the gearbox work for the mechanical shop that I had do mine and that he remembers doing a vs 5ltr 5speed gearbox box BUT it wasn't a full rebuild; it was only to fix the first gear (he said it was just a pin that dropped out) and replace syncro's. I return to the work shop and find they have gone bust...... :)

So screwed.

90% sure it's your gearbox oil guys. I got some Motul gearbox oil put in mine and I started having the very same problem. Switched to Red Line Light Weight Shock Proof and I couldn't be happier. No problems now whatsoever. It's not recommended for newer boxes though.

Talk to a mechanic that works mainly on imports and they all recommend it.

Talk to a 'gearbox/clutch specialist mechanic' and they tell you it's a not as good as everyone thinks. I had 1 good local specialist mechanic show me the internals of 2 gearboxes that he was working on. The gearbox that had Castrol oil was nice and clean, the redline gearbox looked like someone had filled it with grease, not oil.

Each to their own I guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
    • Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • f**king around with the bro
×
×
  • Create New...