Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah I would say just an ECU. The nos kit will come with fuel jets too, so you will just need to fine tune the ign timing and fuel mix a little with the ecu when the nos is active.

man your in some trouble.

The greddy kit is a NOS brand kit with a greddy controler, you buy that and you are paying way to much !!

Much better of buying a local kit. I would look into Zex if that kit was in your budget.

Also that kit I believe is a dry kit. Your really better of with a wet kit for turbo cars(argueable i know)

If you are running a wet kit all you would really need is a good fuel pump and a turbo with a steel wheel.

You won't need ecu/tune or extra injectors with a wet kit.

Or you can burn of your turbo wheel and use it as an excuse to upgrade, waste of $450 turbo though.

Your engine will handle 50hp shot of nos all day every day, just jet the wet kit on the rich side.

Usual nos things also apply. Change heat range in plugs and take about 2 deg of base timing out.

Tuning the NOS on the dyno would be the ideal though.

You DON'T need an aftermarket ECU to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

You DON'T need a tune to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

You DON'T need a steel wheel on your turbo to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

You DON'T need larger injectors if you buy a 'wet' kit to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

You DON'T need to adjust your timing to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

You DON'T need a fancy progressive controller in your car to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

====================================================================

You DO need '7' heat range spark plugs to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car. (BCPR7ES @ 0.8mm)

You DO need a reliable fuel pump to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

You DO need someone with half a brain to fit it and work out a tune (with the jets) to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

You DO need to bear in mind that you shouldn't be activating it under about 3000rpm to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

Adrian

You DON'T need a steel wheel on your turbo to support that level of Nitrous Oxide use in your car.

I think you will find that this is very simular to those that say 15psi + on an rb25 turbo = wheel off

It works for some people and not for others, its just a rule of thumb.

At any rate I don't think you could argue it will increase the chances of the wheel coming off and people should be warned.

I am sure you have some story of how you did it and it was fine for you ... IN YOUR CASE.

The same applies for the timing, all thnigs being equal you are probably right. Bad or low octane fuel will make you wrong.

Edited by Butters
I think you will find that this is very simular to those that say 15psi + on an rb25 turbo = wheel off

It works for some people and not for others, its just a rule of thumb.

At any rate I don't think you could argue it will increase the chances of the wheel coming off and people should be warned.

I am sure you have some story of how you did it and it was fine for you ... IN YOUR CASE.

The same applies for the timing, all thnigs being equal you are probably right. Bad or low octane fuel will make you wrong.

Dude, I wouldn't be arguing about nitrous with 2rismo...

He knows his shit.

Edited by BAMR33
Dude, I wouldn't be arguing about nitrous with 2rismo...

He knows his shit.

Stumbled accross an un-questionable net god have I ?

If he know's "his shit" he will know not everyone is always right about things(including myself :blink: ) they believe to be true and accept other peoples opinions for what they are .....

Edited by Butters

Just remember who said you shouldn't argue with me....it wasn't me and I don't think an argument is necessary. Just so we're clear. I very much appreciate your very last statement. :D

I think you will find that this is very simular to those that say 15psi + on an rb25 turbo = wheel off

It works for some people and not for others, its just a rule of thumb.

It's very different to that scenario, in fact. Running a stock RB25 turbo at 15psi is dramatically different to running the small amount of Nitrous as described in the first post. This is from experience and measurable EGT's etc not from guessing.

At any rate I don't think you could argue it will increase the chances of the wheel coming off and people should be warned.

For a number of reasons it can actually decrease the likelihood of exhaust wheel de-lamination.

I am sure you have some story of how you did it and it was fine for you ... IN YOUR CASE.

What I've said above is based on experience on more than just my car but certainly mostly on my car. However, these suggestions are very different to a sensible rule like the suggestion that you probably shouldn't run 15psi+ on a stock ceramic wheeled turbo for long periods (which I absolutely agree with). They are based on results and facts as well as undeniable measurements taken over a few years by myself and on the vast experience of those with many years more nitrous experience than myself.

The same applies for the timing, all thnigs being equal you are probably right. Bad or low octane fuel will make you wrong.

The same can be said of any modification so I hardly think that's a fair statement. Even if you did re-tune a car for nitrous, you wouldn't tune it with 10:1 AFR's - you'd stick it where it made the most power and safely. Just like too much ignition timing, boost, compression etc, low octane fuel makes for problems.

One more thing on the ignition issue - if you'd genuinely like to understand why adjusting the timing for such low levels of nitrous oxide isn't necessary, please PM me and I'll explain it. Same as anything, when you understand a couple of key points it becomes really simple. It would surprise some to know that you can actually start putting extra timing in when using a moderate amount of gas! :D

Just remember who said you shouldn't argue with me....it wasn't me and I don't think an argument is necessary.

Yep, sorry dude. Wasn't having a go at you.

Its a pet annoyance of mine when people get idiolised(with or without good reason) and you are not allowed to have a different opinion.

I am interested in this comment, if you wish to explain it further ?

For a number of reasons it can actually decrease the likelihood of exhaust wheel de-lamination.

I agree with everything else you say. Be quite intersted in your EGT results too if you wish to share ?

Buy the NOS kit from ROCKET it will be far cheaper.

I ran 100-150hp wet nos kit on my V8 soarer with only a decent fuel pump. We also set up quite a few NA 300zx with 100-150hp NOS kits and all are still going strong 6 years later, reliability is all in the setup and restraint on behalf of the owner....... it is too easy to keep fitting bigeer and bigger jets until something goes wrong.

Be sensible and you will have no issues. The ceramic wheel on the turbo may be an issue if you go too big in the jet size but for 60-80hp you should be sweet.

hay nothing wrong with running 15 psi on a stock turbo, for some reason i can't kill mine, been doing it for a year now, and the bustard still wont die. Actually its 15.6 psi. HIHIH.

hahha soon it will happen lol. I ran 17psi on my ceramic turbo, lasted 12months then one day i took off from a set of lights and then i heard a ching ching ching sound, and then no more boost more me hahha. Its fun taking out our cat to remove all the peices of the ceramic turbine... :laughing-smiley-014:

As 2rismo has already said, setup wise there isn't too much in the way of hardware required.

The tune is important however. Getting the mixtures right with the fuel and nitrous jets isn't really hard it's a little time consuming. 2rismo, may have a few combo's to try if you start with similar components. The timing needs a little backing off and you need to be prepared to drive the car a little differently. If you can get the solenoids as close to the jets in the intake as you can, so you don't have any 'run on' and you get a better hit if you haven't invested in a purge kit (still no where near as good though).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
×
×
  • Create New...