Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am currentley looking at replacing the solid fuel lines in my car, one bigger lines, more fuel, the obvious. But also as everything else will be braided lines and screw on fittings it would be kinda nice to be able to screw these lines into the solid ones instead of using homo little adapters and clamps and stuff.

Now I suppose my actual questions, how much power will the standard lines flow as opposed to say a -6 or -8 line? and how the hell do you get the lines in and out, is there a way to do it without dropping the entire rear cradle out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169667-fuel-lines/
Share on other sites

yeah, just cut them.

Do you have a fuel problem atm? if not, then why bother changing?

then how do you get the new ones in.......

At present yes, with bigger pump/injectors maybe not, but as I said I wanna know how much power the stock lines flow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169667-fuel-lines/#findComment-3135693
Share on other sites

i can tell you for certain if you are using 700cc injectors then the standard solid lines will not be posing a restriction for you.

awesome >_<

hmmm still kinda gay having to use those little adapter thinggys, ah well dunno if I can warrant the expense to get the lines redone just to get around it.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169667-fuel-lines/#findComment-3135885
Share on other sites

I hear alot of discussion about using the hicas lines if its disabled. Weather this is feasible i do not know.

that trick only works for r32's that have the hydraulic hicas.

i ripped my stockers out on the weekend, looking at them, they are only 8mm each! :) replacing them with 2x -6 feed and 1x -8 return. just use a pipe bender to bend the tube into shape, shouldnt be all that hard :)

also if u wanna get rid of the stock rubber gear in the engine bay and kepe the stock tube lines under the car, u can use speedflow fittings from the tubing to braide, piece of piss really >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169667-fuel-lines/#findComment-3136203
Share on other sites

also if u wanna get rid of the stock rubber gear in the engine bay and kepe the stock tube lines under the car, u can use speedflow fittings from the tubing to braide, piece of piss really :happy:

yeah making the lines is no problem it's just getting them in and out :)

yar those little fitting jigger things, just a shame to have all screw on fittings then use rubber pipes and clamps to join to the lines under the car....

The stock gear i believe leewah used for 600rwkw.

It'll be decent enough for you :laugh:

That makes me happier about using the stock ones, as I said before though still a shame to have to use those little jigger fittings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169667-fuel-lines/#findComment-3136517
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...