Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd think you could get a turbo one for not much more, especially if you have cash and no trade. And there is a world of difference between the two models.

Turbo would set him back at LEAST another 3-4k for a series 2 though, unless he's not fussed on what series he gets. :)

3k is not much these days though, you can earn that [gross] inside a month or two. Sh1t most credit cards have a bigger limit.

Plus in 12 months time 3-4k is nothing, BUT an NA is still an NA, for that 3k you get a hellva lot more car.

agree with the above statement...maybe he is red p plater or something.if not id buy the turbo because b4 long you will get sick of n/a and want turbo it.then u will spent more than what it would have cost to buy turbo in the 1st place

agree with the above statement...maybe he is red p plater or something.if not id buy the turbo because b4 long you will get sick of n/a and want turbo it.then u will spent more than what it would have cost to buy turbo in the 1st place

nar im on my p's and parents wont let me get a turbo for my first car....ive gotten it checked by a mate mechanic of mine its ok condition he said....its from a car yard in melbourne

nar im on my p's and parents wont let me get a turbo for my first car....ive gotten it checked by a mate mechanic of mine its ok condition he said....its from a car yard in melbourne

$11,500 is expensive for an n/a

tell mum turbo or not, speeding will still kill you

promise her u wont speed :domokun:

nar im on my p's and parents wont let me get a turbo for my first car....ive gotten it checked by a mate mechanic of mine its ok condition he said....its from a car yard in melbourne

just dont tell your parents its turbo lol. take off the gtst sticker and drive like a granny when there in the car :domokun:

3k is not much these days though, you can earn that [gross] inside a month or two. Sh1t most credit cards have a bigger limit.

Plus in 12 months time 3-4k is nothing, BUT an NA is still an NA, for that 3k you get a hellva lot more car.

Can't agree more; I guess it depends on his age/financial status.

As everyone has mentioned, try and scrape that extra few k's together and grab a turbo mate. If you want skyline you have to do it right. :domokun:

just dont tell your parents its turbo lol. take off the gtst sticker and drive like a granny when there in the car :)

correct me if im wrong..but my theory is that all non turbo skylinez are going to go up in value once the new turbo lawz come out in july...just the simple fact that people my age gunna want skylinez but cant drive them coz they are turbo so theres going to be a demand for more non turbos, does anyone agree?

correct me if im wrong..but my theory is that all non turbo skylinez are going to go up in value once the new turbo lawz come out in july...just the simple fact that people my age gunna want skylinez but cant drive them coz they are turbo so theres going to be a demand for more non turbos, does anyone agree?

Yes.. It's getting old now constantly seeing the responses on here with people saying how even a s2 11.5k n/a skyline is over priced..

They're most likely the ones who have a lot more resources available to them in terms of parts for cheaper prices, so they go hunting for lower priced cars and tend to save a bit by fixing them up themselves.. Not everyone is in the same boat as them and wants to either fix up a car, or go through the importing process. So 11.5k is a hell of a deal if it's in good shape. Especially if it's from a car-yard who might also be able to offer you free servicing etc for 2 years or something similar.

If you can afford a turbo, but your parents say no, get it anyway lol

nar im on my p's and parents wont let me get a turbo for my first car...

i have to agree with the parentals there dude... i'd NEVER let a p plater in my 33 gtst, its way too much car for a driver that only THINKS they are experienced... no offence intended... :D

f**k i'm old :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...