Jump to content
SAU Community

Diy Fibreglass Airbox

bj_dove

By bj_dove,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

JSAI Proficient

JSAI

Posted
Posted

hey guys i dont want to seem like im jumping on your thread and selling my parts,

but we already have airbox's made up for the skylines, in fibreglass and carbon fibre.

we also are about to finish of a new design of airboxs that use the standard snokel.

also, for those members who want to design there own in fibreglass, but are having trouble with where to get the materials dont be affraid to ask me, i can supply you with everythying you need or i can send you to supplier's close to you or in your state.

if you guys have any questions at all or are having trouble and need to know where you are going wrong, just let me know.

MearCat Proficient

MearCat

Posted
Posted

Here is a couple of pics of the fully enclosed prototype that I am making. This version is for the R33 without a front mount intercooler only. My pod filter is an M's pod which is one of the biggest on the mmrket so the box should fit pretty mucvh any pod filter.

I have not made the lid for it yet but you can see that with a lid, it will be fully enclosed and even uses the factory screws to mount it - (one at the top of the box, and one down the bottom (which you can't see in the photo).

Box without pod

Box with pod

PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Nice bit of fiberglassing Dude !

I got pics of mine as well now fitted up so you guys can get an idear but dont know how to post em up ! Send me an e-mail to [email protected] and I'll forward them to you.

Be warned though they are high resolution shots and 5 of em total about 12 MB so make sure youve got plenty of space !

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Here is a couple of pics of the fully enclosed prototype that I am making. This version is for the R33 without a front mount intercooler only. My pod filter is an M's pod which is one of the biggest on the mmrket so the box should fit pretty mucvh any pod filter.

I have not made the lid for it yet but you can see that with a lid, it will be fully enclosed and even uses the factory screws to mount it - (one at the top of the box, and one down the bottom (which you can't see in the photo).

Box without pod

Box with pod

Looks the goods Alan :P

seamonsta Contributor

seamonsta

Posted
Posted

If you are after some airbox lid fasteners than try Dzus ones from Sportsbike in Victoria, these are used on most motorcycle fibreglass and Carbon race fairings, easy to use and pop riveted on (the base that is)

heres a link. http://www.sportsbike.com.au/accessories_dzus_fasteners.html

MearCat Proficient

MearCat

Posted
Posted

OK - I've now finished the lid for the box. The design is complete but there is lots of sanding and final prep work for painting to do, plus cut hole for CAI and glass in a bracket for the boost controller solenoid.

Complete with lid

Complete with lid (front view) - Yes the bonnet does close with approx 15-20mm clearance

I hope this gives you guys/gals some ideas if you want to go the DIY way. This has taken me a long time so far however - I reckon about 20+ hours. For those not prepared to make one themselves, I intend of having this design for sale in about 3-4 months.

Jpowys Community Regular

Jpowys

Posted
Posted (edited)
THIS IS THE R33 VERSION.

post-27746-1184201607_thumb.jpg

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2053/300zx001vn2.jpg

R32 GTS-T AND GTR AVALIABLE ALSO.

AVAILIABLE IN CARBON FIBRE AND FIBREGLASS.

Got a pic and price for r32 GTR one? Any pics also, as i'm interested to see how it bolts in and how it accomodates for the pods and and factory CAI.

Cheers :laugh:

Edited by Jpowys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...