Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Mate! What is your A/F ratio? I think you are running too rich or your tunner did not do a good job. I have the same set up but was running mega rich. Power was about the same as yours and my tunner took off 10 - 12% of the fuel through out the rev range and Whala.........power jumped to 176rwkw with only 10psi of boost on stock turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138574
Share on other sites

hi flow cat yes, knn filter, split fire coil packs,

man if i post up my dyno run video the thing was making flames at the back

the tuner said i need a fuel regulator as the fuel pump is putting in too much fuel

where on the dyno sheet does it tell ur afr rations... i'll zoom in on everytihng i can find n upload pics

Edited by Zas)-(
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138579
Share on other sites

Hey Dude

i think that is on the low side i got 158rkw absolutely stock, 170rkw with crap dump pipe and 8psi boost.If you dont have a dump pipe i think you might gain some more kws also a Hi-flow cat will help, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138581
Share on other sites

Zas,

Are you using stock fuel reg? If so, you do not need the walbro fuel pump for under 200rwkw. Put back your stock fuel pump with your stock fuel regulator and tune it. You will get the power everyone is getting for that setup. If you want to go more then 200rwkw, then get your turbo hiflow, walbro fuel pump with stock fuel reg and a proper tune, you will be able to get close to 230rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138600
Share on other sites

yes i am using a stock fuel regulator

the tuner advised me to get a after market fuel regulator to make it better

though... 230 ? with just a turbo.. jumping anoth 77 kw man dats a big jump???

no i ahve a 3 inch dump, hi flow cat, 3.5 inch catback exhaust with a large blits front mount, electronic profec b, apexi neo, Knn air filter, SPlitfires, Walbro fuel pump

stock fuel regulator , stock turbo and a small green haired troll

post-29824-1179908999_thumb.jpg

Edited by Zas)-(
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138603
Share on other sites

yeah i was told that my fuel pump was maxed out too. car was runnning was rich like 9:1 ratio. ridiciulous. creatd leaned it up to a safe 12:1 and from 150ish rwk i made 182 just from the a/f. and 10 psi boost. i have a hiflow tho. who tuned your car?

Edited by R33GOD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138607
Share on other sites

yeah his saying that theres too much fuel pressure and he cant tune it down?

need a fuel pressure regulator ....

thats onli 10 psi i got this score from boosting up .9 pounds

is motor racing....they did few drift cars in the hot fours....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138616
Share on other sites

Zas,

Are you using stock fuel reg? If so, you do not need the walbro fuel pump for under 200rwkw. Put back your stock fuel pump with your stock fuel regulator and tune it. You will get the power everyone is getting for that setup.

Sorry, thats incorrect.

Its a very very wise idea to upgrade the fuel pump over stock.

Time and time again you see people here asking why they are leaning out, and each time its the stock fuel pump.

man if i post up my dyno run video the thing was making flames at the back

the tuner said i need a fuel regulator as the fuel pump is putting in too much fuel

yes i am using a stock fuel regulator

The tuner advised me to get a after market fuel regulator to make it better

Thats shocking advise from your tuner mate. Unless the factory fuel reg is stuffed, which going by the dyno graph its fine, then fair enough.

But the stock reg is perfect for the task.

A fuel reg will not "give" you power unless you have maxed out the stock injectors, which wont occur until around 230-240rwkw.

And you dont have that power, you need a bigger turbo for a start.

I also reckon the tune you have whilst conservative... its a little "too" conservative, ie. its way to rich, and this is evident by the car blowing flames.

You dont need 11:1 AFR's, its too rich. 11.5-12:1 is what your after and even thats not leaning on the car.

In all honesty, the tune is crap. The advice your being given, is also crap.

I would be looking for a refund and finding a new tuner.

cheers

Also .9 bar = too much boost on the stock turbo.

There is a risk you'll blow it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138680
Share on other sites

Im with nismoid. That tune is average. and the advise your being given is poor as well

Leave the pump in it, leave the stock fuel reg drop the boost slightly to prolong the turbo's life and have it tunned properly.

At that sort of mod level id be tunning it to roughly 12.2 :1 and it will make very decent power, I know you only have a neo so there is only basic tunning to do but honestly that AFR graph looks like something my apprentice could knock out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3138855
Share on other sites

he couldnt get it any higher he sed?

with boosting at 0.9 pounds he was running it max to 153 .5

so nismoids adice being that i dont need a fuel regulator i need a new tuner lol

whata waste of 500 bucks and new platinum plugs ( to which he sed my coppers where shitted on ) fair nuff...

___

____ paulr33 : what do u mean get the neo tuned?

they installed the neo, they tuned it? unless u mean go sumewhere else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3139166
Share on other sites

Cant get what any higher? the power?

Thats because they clearly don't know how to tune. 11:1 AFR's are silly and that's what's causing your poor power.

The car will also feel quite lazy as well. You'll be amazed what a good tune feels like

paulr33 means somewhere else, only because if the tuner calls that being "tuned"... then they have done an incredibly bad job, which isn't cool.

As it looks like they have not "tuned" it at all, well... i lie... It looks like the made changes to the tune, but all the wrong ones and nothing right :)

Also plati plugs are a waste of money.

dollar for dollar coppers are far better, also work just as well, if not better

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169854-dyno-run/#findComment-3139226
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday   on the hunt for an rb25 gearbox and clutch to go into my R32 rb25/30 build happy to travel a bit or pay for freight for the right one From my limited research, think I need an rb25 driveshaft yoke to make it fit so I’m after one of those too located Bathurst
    • Common for single gauges to be swapped around. My 33 GTST when I bought it had a GTR tacho fitted, everything else was GTST gauges.
    • Google says for a 1998 Nissan Maxima to pull/pry, and the metal pin might even come out with it. I'd do a bit more googling, there was a few videos, find some where the shafts/needles appear most similar and compare the techniques.
    • Details: Turbo Borg Warner EFR 9180 with 1.05 rear housing Upgraded TurboSmart integrated BOV Sanded and powdercoated compressor cover in gloss black Elbow welded with wiggins clamp Speed Sensor(Not included) (Can include oil drain(heat wrapped + titanium intake pipe with almost new filter for a tad extra). Manifold: 6 Boost RB26/30 twin scroll manifold  e-MAP ports drilled into both scrolls(I was using the TAARKS EMAP KIT) Turbo is in excellent condition. Always used Penrite 15w50 Racing oil(Changed less then 2000ks). Also using the Turbosmart OP regulator and filter. Downpipe: 4inch Stainless steel with VBand inlet and outlet clamps(included) Heat wrapped Dual ports for Dyno/Wideband usage Will throw in free 2.5 inch intercooler pipe(2.5inch From turbo outlet to 3.5 inch intercooler) - Powder coated black. Turbo made 563rwkw on mainline hub dyno at around 24-25psi boost - Pump fuel. Will def make over 600kw on e85. Didn't bother as my e-MAP was through the roof with my setup sitting past the choke line. I have a cnc ported and fully built head on my 3.2. Turbine speed saw max of around 109k rpm. I'm running this on my R32 GTR, with AC, and the original power steering pump. The manifold clears the AC lines, ABS, and everything else. Although I had new AC lines because I just wanted new ones and I heat wrapped them as well. This will make more power on a slightly lower capacity motor with a higher PR. And I have since upgraded to a G45-1500. Have pics and videos if need be.  Absolutely nothing wrong with setup. Turbo is in perfect condition. No shaft play or oil leaks at all. All the work was professionally done. The transient response of this is fkn amazing. I cannot rave more about this turbo. If I wasn't chasing 4 figures, I would have kept it. $5000 NZ. Located: Auckland, New Zealand.    
    • I particularly like the look of the John Player Special team. (Thumbnail isn't different but hit play for the clip)  
×
×
  • Create New...