Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peoples,

i have a exedy heavy duty "sports tuff" clutch in my r33 gtst and it has just under 190rwk and its crap. not even a year old and its startin to slip. can someone reccomend me a good clutch?

i like the pedal feel of the clutch i have now. whats better and still retains a heavy yet practical pedal feel, and something that wont slip even if i had 250rwk?

something that wont slip even if i had 250rwk?

Nismo twin plate (Super coppermix)

It enjoys all the love i give it...7000+rpm launches

here's my baby when i bought it

Edited by andz

i have a twin plate heavy duty OS Giken in mine and it is doing the tricks so as far as i am concerned i would recommend one.....excedy clutches arent that good i had it in my car for abt 1 year and it was doing what you are experiencing right now.

hey peoples,

i have a exedy heavy duty "sports tuff" clutch in my r33 gtst and it has just under 190rwk and its crap. not even a year old and its startin to slip. can someone reccomend me a good clutch?

i like the pedal feel of the clutch i have now. whats better and still retains a heavy yet practical pedal feel, and something that wont slip even if i had 250rwk?

Under what conditions is it slipping?

I've had mine slip once when i tried to load up some revs on the handbrake. I think i had it on there for too long and it heated up to much or something. It wouldn't launch properly for that run, just bog down instead of biting in. Didn't smell to good anyway. But just doing a rolling take off in first or dropping the clutch, there's no slip at all.

i ate up my HD exedy in a few years as well

this time ive gone a cushion button exedy and i love the feel of it

grips nice and hard

will have to see how long it lasts, was only 1100 to buy and get installed though

A Jim Berry clutch is what you need.

Ive got a single plate R33 GTR type from him, 3800lb clamping pressure (your factory one should have around 1600lb) could handle up to 800hp.

Pedal feels very much like stock being a single plate, as opposed to many multi plate clutches or button type.

I had a Excedy Ceramic button in my GTR which had about 180rwkw and it never slipped once even after other people had driven it and ridden it heaps of times. I had it for about a year then sold the car and it was perfect.

thry these guys...

i have a simple RPM series upgrade with 200rwkw and its great! although its only a few days old :closedeyes:

http://www.clutchindustries.com.au/range/trackseries.htm

Edited by frozenwaffles

Fitted a ORC PRO CARBON last night and its killer, super light pedal with a progressive take up very liveable as a daily for sure.

Part number ORC-559CC-01N bought it from access performance in melb.

Those exedy sports tuff things are crap, evil pedal and short life. A hyper single, ORC single (i love my ORC's, i found it better than my nismo) or a NISMO (bit pricey) is the way to go, somehting that is a matched set with integral flywheel is the go..

post-34927-1180069030_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
Nismo twin plate (Super coppermix)

It enjoys all the love i give it...7000+rpm launches

here's my baby when i bought it

Ditto, mine is sitting in my room till I get the cash to get that + clutch line + pedal bracket installed :)

this time ive gone a cushion button exedy and i love the feel of it

grips nice and hard

will have to see how long it lasts, was only 1100 to buy and get installed though

I'm getting a Exedy H/Duty 5-puk cushion button clutch installed in my 33.

Clutch = $460 delivered

Install = $310 inc machine flywheel

Total = $770.

$1100 sounds too much mate?

Edited by Trav33
where are you getting this done? and where did you get the clutch from? they are great prices...

from the info i have seen above XTREME clutch (who supplies most workshops) has the best price on that clucth and flywheel package.

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/products.htm#

Edited by URAS
where are you getting this done? and where did you get the clutch from? they are great prices...

Clutch = Sliding Performance

Install = Boost Worx, Shaun

Your both paying too much!!!

One of the business traders does the cushion button installed for $710 including flywheel machined

Care to share who.... ?....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...