Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peoples,

i have a exedy heavy duty "sports tuff" clutch in my r33 gtst and it has just under 190rwk and its crap. not even a year old and its startin to slip. can someone reccomend me a good clutch?

i like the pedal feel of the clutch i have now. whats better and still retains a heavy yet practical pedal feel, and something that wont slip even if i had 250rwk?

something that wont slip even if i had 250rwk?

Nismo twin plate (Super coppermix)

It enjoys all the love i give it...7000+rpm launches

here's my baby when i bought it

Edited by andz

i have a twin plate heavy duty OS Giken in mine and it is doing the tricks so as far as i am concerned i would recommend one.....excedy clutches arent that good i had it in my car for abt 1 year and it was doing what you are experiencing right now.

hey peoples,

i have a exedy heavy duty "sports tuff" clutch in my r33 gtst and it has just under 190rwk and its crap. not even a year old and its startin to slip. can someone reccomend me a good clutch?

i like the pedal feel of the clutch i have now. whats better and still retains a heavy yet practical pedal feel, and something that wont slip even if i had 250rwk?

Under what conditions is it slipping?

I've had mine slip once when i tried to load up some revs on the handbrake. I think i had it on there for too long and it heated up to much or something. It wouldn't launch properly for that run, just bog down instead of biting in. Didn't smell to good anyway. But just doing a rolling take off in first or dropping the clutch, there's no slip at all.

i ate up my HD exedy in a few years as well

this time ive gone a cushion button exedy and i love the feel of it

grips nice and hard

will have to see how long it lasts, was only 1100 to buy and get installed though

A Jim Berry clutch is what you need.

Ive got a single plate R33 GTR type from him, 3800lb clamping pressure (your factory one should have around 1600lb) could handle up to 800hp.

Pedal feels very much like stock being a single plate, as opposed to many multi plate clutches or button type.

I had a Excedy Ceramic button in my GTR which had about 180rwkw and it never slipped once even after other people had driven it and ridden it heaps of times. I had it for about a year then sold the car and it was perfect.

thry these guys...

i have a simple RPM series upgrade with 200rwkw and its great! although its only a few days old :closedeyes:

http://www.clutchindustries.com.au/range/trackseries.htm

Edited by frozenwaffles

Fitted a ORC PRO CARBON last night and its killer, super light pedal with a progressive take up very liveable as a daily for sure.

Part number ORC-559CC-01N bought it from access performance in melb.

Those exedy sports tuff things are crap, evil pedal and short life. A hyper single, ORC single (i love my ORC's, i found it better than my nismo) or a NISMO (bit pricey) is the way to go, somehting that is a matched set with integral flywheel is the go..

post-34927-1180069030_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
Nismo twin plate (Super coppermix)

It enjoys all the love i give it...7000+rpm launches

here's my baby when i bought it

Ditto, mine is sitting in my room till I get the cash to get that + clutch line + pedal bracket installed :)

this time ive gone a cushion button exedy and i love the feel of it

grips nice and hard

will have to see how long it lasts, was only 1100 to buy and get installed though

I'm getting a Exedy H/Duty 5-puk cushion button clutch installed in my 33.

Clutch = $460 delivered

Install = $310 inc machine flywheel

Total = $770.

$1100 sounds too much mate?

Edited by Trav33
where are you getting this done? and where did you get the clutch from? they are great prices...

from the info i have seen above XTREME clutch (who supplies most workshops) has the best price on that clucth and flywheel package.

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/products.htm#

Edited by URAS
where are you getting this done? and where did you get the clutch from? they are great prices...

Clutch = Sliding Performance

Install = Boost Worx, Shaun

Your both paying too much!!!

One of the business traders does the cushion button installed for $710 including flywheel machined

Care to share who.... ?....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...