Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've never done a full car install before in my life although i have replaced the head unit and replaced all the speakers bu just used the headunit to power everything, and standard wiring.

It's time for some extra bass.

Not huge amounts but definately more.

I have a small 10inch Pioneer sub i'v had for years collecting dust so may aswell use it.

And some 6x9's in the garage still in there box.

Just bought a wiring kit and a Sony 4 chanel amp.

Finally the question...

How do you get the RCA connectors to feed the signal from the headunit thru to the boot?

Lift some carpet or some other means?

I'm thinking it's the carpet and if it is, can you tell me the do's and don't about it, so i can get it all back in place so it doesn't look like some hack has ripped it all up and couldn't get it back quite right :P

Can someone shed some light on that for me

..thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169916-noob-car-install-question/
Share on other sites

dos and don'ts

don't put rcas near power (not so much of an issue with our cars since the batt is in the boot). it will cause noise.

The best place to run the rcas is down the side (under the skyline panel, then along the backseat, then there are holes under the back seat. IT's a pain to pull the seats out, but hey, you only have to do it once.

hope that helps. Anymore qs, feel free to ask.

I'm crazily busy with uni atm (just coming up to exams), otherwise i'd be able to give you a hand :thumbsup:

yeah, run it tp the side and under the door sil, through the seat and into the boot... you might want to think about taking out that sound deadener behind the seat too while your at it... especially if you only have a 10'

its bit of a bitch job, but its the best way to do it... have fun :thumbsup:

I just meant it was a bitch in the sense that it scratches the side trims when you take the seat out. Yes i'm anal :thumbsup:

You hsould be right mate :D

Also, face the sub box backwards. Easiest (not necessarily best looking place to moun tthe sub is just on the side of the box.

yeah, run it tp the side and under the door sil, through the seat and into the boot... you might want to think about taking out that sound deadener behind the seat too while your at it... especially if you only have a 10'

its bit of a bitch job, but its the best way to do it... have fun :P

I didnt think removing the deadener was a good idea... correct me if im wrong though...

When you install speakers in the doors, its a good idea to spend money installing lots of sound deadening, including dynaxorb rubber sound absorbers behind the drivers. These give the sound more bass!

And i thought it'd be the same with the boot - ive seen installs with dynamat installed on the inside of the boot lining, and the boot panels???

not when the mat is BETWEEN YOU AND THE SUB... behind = good

come on man... use your brain... you already have some metal, and a seat covering your sub from your ears, do you really want a rubber and fibre mat there too?

Using my brain, i thought high acoustic frequencies are directional, which is why tweeters are pointed at your ears. However low frequncies propegate through structures, hence why a sub can be in your boot and you have no problems "feeling" the vibration.

I'd rather have good sound deadening on my rear seat (base and back) to block out road noise and keep the cabin as quiet as possible, which i wouldnt think would stop the bass coming through from a sub...

Why do some custom installs have dynamat all around their boot? I dont think it is stopping the bass from coming out!

But correct me if i'm wrong....!

Edited by Trav33

no your pretty much right... but its still muffled...

normally the seat and metal construct is enough to stop any road noise coming through... it works for me...

i saw the rubber mat as a waste of my time... and rubber absorbs sound quite well, at any frequency...

its unnecessary though... wont make a massive difference, but will make a little difference and you shed some weight by taking it out :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haven’t had the chance to drive it yet with work being a nightmare, will definitely be doing that at some point this week. got these so that grip won’t be an issue at roll racing  
    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...