Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Check for a vacume leak like a leaking manifold gasket or intercooler pipes and all the vacume hoses even a small leak can cause problems. The easy way to check for a leak is to have the engine idling and spray engine start over all the hoses inlet manifold and intercooler pipes if there is a leak the engine will rev up or splutter when the engine start gets sucked in.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah going to chech that today, i have some pluming end caps to allow for plumming up of the air compressor and looking for leaks that way.

also founf on the net that the plug near the washer bottle can couse problems, so i am going to clean it up and redo the connection to make sure it's AOK.

other then that i am out of idea.

I did a log of the car this morning and noticed that as soon as it does this and goes funny, the oxygen sensor drops to zero and then bounces back then back to zero,

dropping to zero means really lean, ie could be fuel cut. what do injector duty cycle say as same point?

post up your consult logs would help

just cause the ecu is remapped doesnt mean its necessarily remapped "properly". a few stray values and the car might be cutting all fuel for given points in the map. can the rom be downloaded with consult? if so maybe u could check that out with some rom editor software and see if anything looks dodgy whereever you're having problems

I have the .bin file for it i will PM you with it. It definatly has not got boost cut on the ECU. Like i said teh ECU ran fine for about 6 months, no issues it was briliant, and somethign has gone wrong since then to make it liek it is.

I will do another log of the car tomorrow morning and post it up for you all to see.

I have had a new CAS and AFm on, no differance, new TP and ACC valve, no change, have 6 new injectors to chuck in it and do a full blown leak test on the piping.

did u get any fault codes? under 3500 rpm sounds like possibly a knock sensor issue

and im not up to speed on rom stuff, but if there is a secondary knock map, then maybe its detecting a bit of knock, and then using that knock map (which could have the dodgy value in it) or simply the knock protection is what ur feeling (r&r)

not sure if the ecu listens to knock sensor at idle though, so you may have another issue there.

well got a new ecu and no go still the same issue. I did a full log this morning and am about to go over it and have a look.

I was thinking Knock sensors to, but accoriding to my SAFC II no matter which one i connect to, thy both show simmilar values. I have a set to put on, so that is next on the line.

This may fixnumber two, but still starts like a dog in the morning.

As for fault codes, sweet FA.

This sort of sounds like what my car is doing atm. It's standard apart from a 3 inch straight through exhaust and a pod filter. It keeps stopping. Like if you drive along it will stop and then jerk back into life again. It doesn't seem to be related to anything. The only thing maybe is that when it is warm cos i don't remember it doing it while its been cold. I'm thinking it could be something to do with the ingnition because if it was coilpacks it would just miss wouldn't it?

Good luck with your problem WogsRus, hopefully your solution will help me :P

Cheers

Stricko

EDIT: Oh BTW i'm trying to get hold of an ECU Diagnostic tool to see what i can find. Will post the results.

Edited by stricko

yeah well still searching. I did a pressure test on all IC piping and connection, 50psi and holding no issues there. Still to pressure test the planum.

Getting a new PCV valve for the rocker just in case.

I had two more ecus and it's not that. Nothing to do with mapping, as i had my mates PFC and it still does it with that, and his can has same mods and power.

I have replaced 90% electrical componenets and still nothing. Going to go over teh wiring loom as there has to be something worong with it. HAS too.

boooohhooooo,

pretty sure 0 = lean, which means u have a fuel problem (rather than ignition...if fuel was getting in but no ign, o2 sensor would be rich)

had ur injectors tested/replaced at all? ran any additives etc?

u really need to post logs though...eg is the fuel problem because the ECU is telling the injectors not to inject, or because the injectors arent injecting the fuel (even though the ecu is telling them to)? eg is there an input sensor (afm, engine temp, cas etc) that is messing up at that rpm due to vibration etc, and the ecu is responding accordingly? cant tell without the logs.

i have an a stock reg and a 1:1 rising rate on inline as a precortion. I have the log i posted it here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=170677

So far i have showed it to a couple of people and taking their instructions on board.

This sort of sounds like what my car is doing atm. It's standard apart from a 3 inch straight through exhaust and a pod filter. It keeps stopping. Like if you drive along it will stop and then jerk back into life again. It doesn't seem to be related to anything. The only thing maybe is that when it is warm cos i don't remember it doing it while its been cold. I'm thinking it could be something to do with the ingnition because if it was coilpacks it would just miss wouldn't it?

Good luck with your problem WogsRus, hopefully your solution will help me :P

Cheers

Stricko

EDIT: Oh BTW i'm trying to get hold of an ECU Diagnostic tool to see what i can find. Will post the results.

check or replace the CAS with a known good one and see if problem goes away.

Edited by URAS
This sort of sounds like what my car is doing atm. It's standard apart from a 3 inch straight through exhaust and a pod filter. It keeps stopping. Like if you drive along it will stop and then jerk back into life again. It doesn't seem to be related to anything. The only thing maybe is that when it is warm cos i don't remember it doing it while its been cold. I'm thinking it could be something to do with the ingnition because if it was coilpacks it would just miss wouldn't it?

Good luck with your problem WogsRus, hopefully your solution will help me

Cheers

Stricko

EDIT: Oh BTW i'm trying to get hold of an ECU Diagnostic tool to see what i can find. Will post the results.

check or replace the CAS with a known good one and see if problem goes away.

Right i've had the ECU diagnostic tool plugged into my car and went for a drive. The CAS reading went up to about 6000rpm even though the engine speed wasn't this and the when it jerked back into life the CAS reading came back to normal. Getting a new CAS ASAP to hopefully fix my problem. The ECU diagnostic tool also said there was a AFM problem. Could this just be because of the CAS being dodgy or could my AFM need replacing as well?

BTW car is a 1993 R32 Skyline GTS-T Type M with 86000kms, 3inch straight through exhaust and pod filter.

Cheers

Stricko

Edited by stricko

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...