Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

the last few times i have filled my tank FULL i get a really bad fuel smell in the car. i have looked for leaks in the engine bay and looked under the fuel tank but nothings leaking.

its weird coz the smell only lasts like 20min of driving after i've filled up and then its gone like nothing happened, and i've been filling up at the same servo and using the same type of petrol for a year and a half.

- i did replace the fuel filter bout 2 months before this started happening so i've ruled that out as a cause.

- fuel caps in good cond.

- still getting the same fuel economy i always did

can any1 help me out, whats causing it?

Edited by tigr33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170266-fuel-smell-inside-car-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

If you fill up when the car is already hot a lot of pressure builds up in the tank and seeps past the rubber seal for the fuel pump, the fumes then enter cabin. however if you can't smell any signs of fuel fumes in your boot and you can under the bonnet it will probably be a deteriorated hose or loose hose clamp.

Rubber seal on tank lid, Just do the Match test LoL that will determine where its coming from :wub: Just kidding If its only when its on full, most likely over full it be the rubber seal in the boot id reckon

Good luck

A

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...