Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as some of you know I had problems with my car losing power then kicking back in all of a sudden. First we thought electrical, but the mechanis said no, then the fuel filter...but apparently not.

Complete auto here in Whyalla is where i took it. They serviced my car, changed alot of piping and some other random junk. Costing around 700. They rekon they fixed the problem with what they did.......but they didnt. Now the rekon it could be the knock sensors i think they said, anyways they said theres two of them in my car. And they want to charge 1grand EACH!!! Lucky for me it was dad who has been paying everything.

So dad's taking it to adelaide this weekend. Basically I wanna know if my Mechanic here is ripping me off. Also what are some respected workshops in Adelaide that might be able to check the sensors on the weekend for me?

Thanx in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/
Share on other sites

Boostworx is great but you could try John at Rhemac motors in Gawler, he's had a lot of experience and charges ok. Plus you don't have to wait months to get in.

I'd also consider going somewhere like Tilbrooks for weird skyline related issues cos they see heaps of skylines only problem is they will hit you in the pocket pretty hard (my experience).

Personally I'd go to John, he knows his stuff

my 2c

aaron >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/#findComment-3147174
Share on other sites

I take my car to Southern Hi Tech Dyno. Speak to John Keen, he is the best and wont stuff you around.

His number is 08 8277 4400

John keen can only tell what his dyno tells him. I have taken countless cars to him and he has guessed off his dynomax only to be corrected by logic in the end by someone that understands. He is good at making you believe he knows when he dosent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/#findComment-3147901
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...