Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so you have the 90mm ti-r full titanium one?

i just called bankstown and told him how much you have them for. but he could only quote 1800. for a 32gtr

is there much difference? i'm going to need to probably modify it anyway to fit to the trust dumps as i had to modify them to fit also.

ah yeah that is the normal price. i just informed George about the list :worship: and sent the list throught to them.

i have a list of 330 items (5x greddy gtr plenums...$699 etc) i am clearing out and that 80mm PETIR exhaust was part of it, i would post up the list put i am not a sponsor and dont want to upset any one.

i do have a 90mm power evolution (v clamp with catout pipe) for R32 gtr on that list $699

Edited by URAS
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ah yeah that is the normal price.

i have a list of 330 items (5x greddy gtr plenums...$699 etc) i am clearing out and that 80mm PETIR exhaust was part of it, i will send the list throught to them now. i would post up the list put i am not a sponsor and dont want to upset any one.

i do have a 90mm power evolution (v clamp with catout pipe) for R32 gtr on that list $699

is that one full titanium? i've already got a 3.5 inch exhaust from dumps back. but its about 35kg!

ah yeah that is the normal price. i just informed George about the list :worship: and sent the list throught to them.

i have a list of 330 items (5x greddy gtr plenums...$699 etc) i am clearing out and that 80mm PETIR exhaust was part of it, i would post up the list put i am not a sponsor and dont want to upset any one.

i do have a 90mm power evolution (v clamp with catout pipe) for R32 gtr on that list $699

nah i have that exhaust and it's mild steel.

fat pipe though.

what's the price for the 90mm GTR32 Ti-R???

might have to upgrade...

X2

nengun sell the 90 for 1200ish. autobarn said 1800 but i want a 950 buck oner

how much difference is a 33gtr exhaust form a 32gtr?

yeah the 1800 quote was incorrect it was rrp, they should always match nengun

Edited by URAS
from what i've read. its a cat back :cheers:

The one that Luke has in the Pic's... From what he has told me basically deletes the cat soooo yeah, hence the reason it comes with the silencer i think.

I think i might deff be interested in a 80mm (R32) as well!

your going to have to post a audio/video clip of the car when the new zorst is on, i wanna hear it :D , should sound awsome with only 1 muffler, and possibly no cat.

Nengun says $1463.57 (90mm) delevered to Tassie. mmmmmmmmmm tempting, dam you giving me ways to spend money! :cheers:

Edited by sav man

as I understand it, as it is a "track" system, not the "street/circuit" model - the pipe connects straight to the end of the Front pipe - thus no cat pipe is required at all to make up this length. However I wont know for sure until I go to fit it.

Be careful with ordering this exhaust from Nengun - The box it comes in is pictured back on page 1, its bloody big! there is no way you can EMS a box this size.

The only way to airfreight would be DHL - initial quotes we were looking at to use DHL to airfreight this from Japan was in the region of $500+

so this rapidly increases the cost of the exhaust...

Trent's price at autobarn is insanely cheap - it must be 30 or 40 % below cost price - any stores here in Adelaide I spoke to about ordering this exhaust was $2k to get it for me. Sponsors on NS/SAU quoted me about $1800. The price listed on Trust website I think equates to about $1200/$1300, so when you factor in airfreight and import duty ontop of this, I was pretty happy to get mine all up for $1600 :cheers:

Edited by rb4door

nengun site says that only packages over 1.5m are a problem, and the only list the evo system as being too long. But i don't realy want to be spending money on one since I alrealy have a 80mm, and I need to upgrade my suspention. I should start a charety for myself :D

mmmmm 90mm full TI exhuasts...

that is one sexy mofo! - i highly reccomend u guys to get them if u can! the weight is insane.

as for volume - stand the F*ck back.

I'm running the Veilside 90mm Full TI cat back exhuast on the supra, its not a quiet beast...

but then again i am non turbo :D

stock cat back exhuast was 30kg + - this thing is less than 10 - its crazy.

but thats cause the TI exhuasts are thinner = louder than stainless....

plus no center muffler is bad...

but since most of u guys will have a turbo in ur cars should be a bit quieter (except on boost)

nengun site says that only packages over 1.5m are a problem, and the only list the evo system as being too long. But i don't realy want to be spending money on one since I alrealy have a 80mm, and I need to upgrade my suspention. I should start a charety for myself :D

I just measured the box, its 1.7 meters :P

Nengun wont send this to Australia unless you organise DHL

as I understand it, as it is a "track" system, not the "street/circuit" model - the pipe connects straight to the end of the Front pipe - thus no cat pipe is required at all to make up this length. However I wont know for sure until I go to fit it.

Be careful with ordering this exhaust from Nengun - The box it comes in is pictured back on page 1, its bloody big! there is no way you can EMS a box this size.

The only way to airfreight would be DHL - initial quotes we were looking at to use DHL to airfreight this from Japan was in the region of $500+

so this rapidly increases the cost of the exhaust...

Trent's price at autobarn is insanely cheap - it must be 30 or 40 % below cost price - any stores here in Adelaide I spoke to about ordering this exhaust was $2k to get it for me. Sponsors on NS/SAU quoted me about $1800. The price listed on Trust website I think equates to about $1200/$1300, so when you factor in airfreight and import duty ontop of this, I was pretty happy to get mine all up for $1600 :D

Bugger that it goes on without cat. i modified my trust dumps fo fit better and higher so modification to this titanium system will have to happen also.

p.s. I say no to Non flowing pussy! let the car breathe and let your rear bar get a coating of nice black richness!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...