Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much did it cost you, if you dont mind me asking...

gates racing belt $110

coolant $30

fan, alternator, waterpump belt $50

idler, tensioner, cam seals, front crank seal $260

labour $100. was a friend who done it for me so i got that part cheap

so yea i got away with it for $550

Yea how much? Also i spotted u melton freeway and calder park drive last night... You had a statesman behind you at lights.

yea was bored went for a drive. what stato wer u in? i ran a vn bt1 shortly after :P lol

Edited by R33GOD

I wasnt in stato, i was in skyline(white 33) You went up inside at lights before that intersection ^ and i was in far lane... then i turned up calder park drive, statesman was behind you driving like a hero through traffic.

same place i spotted you last time

I wasnt in stato, i was in skyline(white 33) You went up inside at lights before that intersection ^ and i was in far lane... then i turned up calder park drive, statesman was behind you driving like a hero through traffic.

same place i spotted you last time

was it a new clubby? i only remember that going up my ass bein a hero

  • 1 month later...
gates racing belt $110

coolant $30

fan, alternator, waterpump belt $50

idler, tensioner, cam seals, front crank seal $260

labour $100. was a friend who done it for me so i got that part cheap

so yea i got away with it for $550

hey man, what part numbers did you use for these? they're 3 different belts right? did you do the power steering belt too?

only reason i ask is i'm probably gonna get lube mobile to do my 100km service and just supply all the parts (a workshop quoted me $600 for the labour). I just want to have everything there ready to fit.

Will probably also take out the radiator etc for the guy to save money (he can put it back for me though :() just don't want to have to guess with things like the timing and tension and don't have a harmonic balancer puller.

Aww this reminds me its time to do my 100,000km service also. Just emailed Unigroup for a price fingers crossed its not too crazy. How long did it take to get the whole service done?? Did you get the car back the same day??

Edited by LatinR33
Aww this reminds me its time to do my 100,000km service also. Just emailed Unigroup for a price fingers crossed its not too crazy. How long did it take to get the whole service done?? Did you get the car back the same day??

it's usually less than a days work. actually no more than 4 hours for a mechanic (tops) otherwise you'd have to question their skill level. but that's just for a fluids, belts, water pump, idler bearings etc change. if you add in extra stuff it'll take longer obviously.

Just got a response from Lube mobile they said this. Its a little bit excessive I think.

"In response to your e-mail, the labour to perform the 100 000km Log Book Service (Including fitting your Water Pump, Timing Belt and Tensioner). is only $588.20"

that's pretty good!

all lube mobile did was tell me is:

LM "To get a mechanic onsite to do this for you you would be looking at our minimum charge of $132.80 for the first 45 minutes and $99.80 per hour thereafter."

ME "Any indication of how long this type of job would take?"

LM "The mechanic will be able to give a better indication onsite."

which i thought was pretty lame, but they called me after i said "why not just put those prices on the website then!?" and she said I wouldn't have to pay for anything if he came out and gave a quote that I wasn't prepared to accept.

I wouldn't have to pay for anything if he came out and gave a quote that I wasn't prepared to accept.

Thats the good thing :thumbsup:

You know about the work I had done, which he completed at 7:30 last night. The "worst case" quote he gave was $2500, I ended up paying $2400.

This was the major (all fluids, flush, belts [timing etc etc], tuneup, clutch and brake master, new plat plugs and gapping, a few hoses, and so much more I couldnt list but just think "

the major of major services lol), steering pump, 2 x Nolathane castor bushes, fuel lines (f'ing thinks were ripped up and leaking everywhere haha - why i drove it like this, I dont know haha), wipers, 02 sensor, water pump.

Plus they gave me 2 x $30 vouchers for my next service haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...