Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, as we all know that skylines and other coupes have minimal boot space and was just wanting to construct a vertical flush mount rack for my amps. Im wanting to make them on the side compartments of the boot so that i can maximize the boot space.

Has anyone done this? I have a basic concept of constructing a vertical flush mount for an amplifier however would like some experianced insight, tips, tutorials and pics if possible. Here is a pic just you guys have a rough idea.

Any info would be appreciated!

post-23753-1180576100_thumb.jpg

Regards,

Sarkis

hehehe I have checked out almost every car audio site possible and cant get any tute's or pics.

Yea i was considering using card board to make a template then construct it using 16 - 18mm MDF. I could use L brackets & pop-rivets to support it. On my next day off ill strip the boot interior and see what i have to work with. Ill try and post up some pics.

Cheers

Custom boot installations done by a real professional have no SCREW HOLES in any part of the metal of the car.

But not everyone is going to expose their trade secrets on how to do it properly. Backyarders who dont understand why professionals charge money for boot installs have devised the PANEL AND SCREW idea and then they boast about how they did the same job for next to nuthing.

I can do a boot install in any car with no damage to any metal part.

If u dont mind rust then do the usual bracket and screw idea it works for a lot of DIY guys.

Edited by Adelaideprosound

I appreciate you advice Adelaideprosound, I have no means of drilling into the metal of the car but rather secure it on the the plastic and rubber mouldings. I personaly dont have the cash to pay an Audio workshop to do such an install and thats why i want to give it a go myself.

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Another thought, amp rack style setup which is bolted to a flat piece of MDF that has been affixed to the floor?

Just looked back through some old posts, Kezza had something similar altho not in the same location:

post-6400-1180593836_thumb.jpg

//edit: I see George has done some fantastic ones too from the pics on his website :(

It will add weight but heres and idea..

A full length mdf peice id say maybe 10mm thick .. cut it to the shape of your removable carpet..

Then make a box for the amp and screw that box into the side of the fake floor .. carpet it all and restain it via the two metal peices which prevent the spare tyre accidently flying out just infront of the fuel tank they are like reinforcement struts .. you dont need to worry you can screw into them :( ive done it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...