Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now i know this is one of the things where you get what you pay for. I have spoken to Jim Berry about the full monty etc but i just can't afford it. So i'm looking for recommendations on a clutch that can handle up to around 300rwks, It'll be in a 32 with an rb30 twin cam which i'm fitting an rb25 gearbox too. Its not a daily driver so driveability isn't crucial but i don't want something stupidly heavy.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171271-clutch-recommendations/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

how much approx is the full monty? i'm currently saving up for a clutch and am looking at going for something that greatly exceeds my short term power goals as a way of limiting further outlay for a different clutch later on? when i spoke to him i think i was looking at around $700 for an organic type and around the $900+ for a carbonics one. But as I was only getting an 'idea' at the time and the realisation that I was going to have to invest a reasonable amount in order to get something worthwhile (as opposed to a cheapie exedy) I didn't go into much more detail (by the time I get around to pooling my cash for it, i would have forgotten details anyway).

pm me if you'd prefer (lots of people don't like to post quoted prices for some reason)

Dane

'retail' price for a full monty is $1300. jim gives discounts if you supply old clutches, also he loves the stock gtr pressure plates, as he can get a fair bit of clamping pressure out of em when he rebuilds them.

  • 3 weeks later...

Ash,

My Xtreme 9puk is slowly slipping worse and worse. More so for some reason when I grab third gear. So I am up for a clutch.

I can't well don't want to afford a jim berry full monty so I'm going to look at a 5puk exedy from Slide. I believe they are in the $400's.

It should hold on ok. I hope. :(

Slide has them listed for 300rwkw so fingers crossed it holds well. For the cost. I'm going to give it a shot.

As they say... The poor man pays twice.. lmao.

I've got my head sitting next to me with the cams just sitting in there loose; you don't need those regrinds do you? lol

GTR springs are fitted; stock springs had 10psi seat pressure :S the gtr's have a touch over 35psi so a bit better. :D

I'd go OS if I could find one for a reasonable price, but then you run the risk of it being stuffed. You got a really good deal with yours. :(

Nengun cheapest I can see is 1.4k then right up to 2k for a twinplate. I'd almost prefer to go the twin for another couple hundred over jim berry's. But would it be better than Jim berry's.

os giken twin rebuilt ftw :)

may sound stupid but why skimp now?

not a stupid thing to say at all but i now have a mortgage so basically i've just been spending money i had in a savings account left over from my deposit and well as you can imagine its now down to less than i would like.

Cubes, i was looking at that clutch slide has and i think i might give it a go!

I'd go OS if I could find one for a reasonable price, but then you run the risk of it being stuffed. You got a really good deal with yours. :)

Nengun cheapest I can see is 1.4k then right up to 2k for a twinplate. I'd almost prefer to go the twin for another couple hundred over jim berry's. But would it be better than Jim berry's.

pm dave (t04gtr) he mite have 1/11ty os twins layin around :D then send it upto jim/npc for a rebuild, cant go wrong then if u want a twin

but i still prefer jim's full monty, its tried & tested, and is alot more user friendly compared to dirty twins

not a stupid thing to say at all but i now have a mortgage so basically i've just been spending money i had in a savings account left over from my deposit and well as you can imagine its now down to less than i would like.

Im in exactly the same boat, mortgage'd up with little left in savings. Shit they put a clamp on ur nuts (mod wise :))

Give direct clutch in qld a call, i have a clutch from him that is now 5 years old and still going like new and handling 214rwkw. You know its good too because my gearbox is tired and noisy and crying out to be replaced with the 33 one i have laying around.

;)

I've driven Bl4ck32 OS twin and its f**king awesome. Extremely nice take up, very smooth and a fairly light pedal. But anythings light compared to my 9puk xtreme XHD. :P

Either way I'd be more than happy to live with the OS twin all day every day.

See how I go; I've got a few things on my plate at the moment so one thing at a time; then I'll look at the clutch side of things.

Ash and Joel, I think you two should have a look into this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=170024

I'm up for a new clutch at the moment aswell, my two year old organic shitter isn't doing too well ;)

The ones that Slide sells are not genuine and what not. Simon I know is having a lot of trouble with his, I'd rather pay the extra hundred or so for a genuine one...

Edited by salad
Ash and Joel, I think you two should have a look into this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=170024

I'm up for a new clutch at the moment aswell, my two year old organic shitter isn't doing too well :worship:

The ones that Slide sells are not genuine and what not. Simon I know is having a lot of trouble with his, I'd rather pay the extra hundred or so for a genuine one...

mmmm, i had heard that! remeber reading it somewhere!

Which one would u say i should go for?

I'm not too sure for you, I'm getting the cushioned button as I still want some drivability for my daily, but need a lot more bite than an organic. Have driven an Extreme cushioned button and it was nice. For you, I doubt that would be enough...

For 300rwkw, they recommend the sports ceramic or the racing ceramic, prices are getting a bit higher ($782 and $667 respectively). All prices and rated power are here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...70024&st=28

Having bought and installed a cushioned button, I would say go for the twin plate. The cushioned button is still very bitey and I've heard of many people replacing soon after due to quick wear, as they don' like to be ridden.

I'm just waiting for mine to start to slip, although saying that it hasn't slipped yet. Reversing over gutters is also painlful as I try not to ride the clutch to wear it and not go too quick over the gutter as to damage the suspension and front bar. Moral, save up and get a twin plate.

Edited by BAMR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...