Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i was the same Lee when i needed my timing belt done

Tilbrooks = $1200ish could of been more - didnt include water pump

Manta Racing = $800 - now if it was out of Steve @ Manta or Tilbrooks Manta wins

Boostworx = $620 - included everything

yeah i was the same Lee when i needed my timing belt done

Tilbrooks = $1200ish could of been more - didnt include water pump

Manta Racing = $800 - now if it was out of Steve @ Manta or Tilbrooks Manta wins

Boostworx = $620 - included everything

Wow... that much difference... i know where i'll be going when it comes up then. Does Boostworx do other things as well? Like boost gauge, controller, exhaust. Like a one stop shop?

Wow... that much difference... i know where i'll be going when it comes up then. Does Boostworx do other things as well? Like boost gauge, controller, exhaust. Like a one stop shop?

Yeh mate Shaun and Troy do the lot! I'm closeish to them so its good, BUT even with those sorta savings its worth booking in early with Boostworx AND make the drive from the North!

the guys at tilbrook are fk witz it was 400 for a dyno tune and i got them to make a bracket for my pod and take out some hoses and he said around 450 for it all done, so i went along with it wen i went to pick up my car he said 720! i was liek wtf? then i look at the receipt and they charged me like 50bucks for taking off my front bar 25 bucks to make a bracket when it cost liek 5 bucks to do and all this other lil shit added up piss mee off

Edited by GME_OVA R34

I don't think it matters where you go, you should always double check with them the final price and make them agree to that so they don't add on any extras. Get them to give you a definite final price not a ballpark figure or estimate. Unless of course you've got deep pockets and are rolling in it, not here though :O

I don't think it matters where you go, you should always double check with them the final price and make them agree to that so they don't add on any extras. Get them to give you a definite final price not a ballpark figure or estimate. Unless of course you've got deep pockets and are rolling in it, not here though :O

Tilbrooks are well known for upping the figure upon finishing the job, so a firm price isnt a price to them.

the guys at tilbrook are fk witz it was 400 for a dyno tune and i got them to make a bracket for my pod and take out some hoses and he said around 450 for it all done, so i went along with it wen i went to pick up my car he said 720! i was liek wtf? then i look at the receipt and they charged me like 50bucks for taking off my front bar 25 bucks to make a bracket when it cost liek 5 bucks to do and all this other lil shit added up piss mee off

i really don't understand y u bother posting on sau. You asked for recommendations and everyone told u what they thought, so you said ok i'll go to boostworx. you then still go to the place everyone told u not to and get burnt, no sympathy here!

then in the intercooler thread you said um i have no money so i'll get a cheaper just jap cooler then u get back on that night saying you'd just bought an $1100 blitz cooler, mmmmmmmmmmmm???????????

y am i starting to think you're a 13 year old kid with nothing better to do?

tool!

What. A. Tool. please sell your R34 to someone that will take care of it properly and take it to the right places. Furthermore, I concur with rbman. Why ask us where should you go when all your gonna do is waste our time by giving you good advice and places to go to.

Boostworx all the way, you have learnt.

Tilbrooks are well known for upping the figure upon finishing the job, so a firm price isnt a price to them.

What i meant was that something like a dyno should be at a set price, y should you be paying anymore for something that really is rather simple. Will agree with you about tilbrooks though, definitely not disagreeing with you there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...