Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dude wtf u guys have turbo cars and get that much Ks..

ive got a na r34 and the max i can get out of a full 70dollar tank is 300Ks MAX.

and i dont even have a heavy foot

all ive got is a 3inch pipe form the engine to back wif a 4inch tip..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3165928
Share on other sites

a tank is 45 litres so im guessing that i get about 22.5 litres per 100ks, which is ridiculous, i dont have a heavy foot but i do drive a lot of short distances do u think that this is the problem

if you do alot of stop and start driving and short trips you'll burn a hell of a lot more fuel than highway driving i used to get that sorta range when i was doing runaround driving in the city, also double check the last time your got a tune up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3166580
Share on other sites

A way you can gain more kms is to change to new oxygen sensors, new fuel filter, change back to stock air box and I think cleaning your air flow meter helps, but if your always having short trips, that explains why you don't get much out of a tank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3166629
Share on other sites

the fact that you do short trips doesn't help.

try getting a new o2 sensor. it may also be that your water temp sensor is dodgy as well so it is constantly running on cold start enrichment even when it is warm, or your thermostat may be a bit dodgy and making the car run cooler, which has a similar effect.

also where you live can make a difference too. where i live is hilly, so that means you will use more fuel than somewhere that is flat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3167132
Share on other sites

yer, as these guys say, im convinced its more the distance of driving you do than how you drive

as soon as i get out on the highway, i get much much better economy, than the normal driving to and from work

would easily get 400/450 ks to a tank on the highway, close to 300/350 to from work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3169168
Share on other sites

a tank is 45 litres so im guessing that i get about 22.5 litres per 100ks, which is ridiculous, i dont have a heavy foot but i do drive a lot of short distances do u think that this is the problem

whaaa???????

My tank is 61litres.....

and I average 10-11 litres per 100km (3" turbo back and a pod) and I dont drive slow either...

There is deffinately something wrong with your cars fuel consumption!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3169813
Share on other sites

02 sensor problem maybe? that will hinder on fuel consumption, i get 300 k's with 16psi modded engine and turbo and thats non conservative driving, id get it looked at or check the 02 sensor that may be a start or tune with aftermarket computer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170024
Share on other sites

Unless my understanding of the narrow-band O2 sensor is wrong, it is for closed loop feedback. ie. cruise conditions. Unlikely that will have any impact on crappy fuel consumption if you are only doing 2-3km short run driving.

Cold start / low temp enrichment comes from the engine temp sensor feedback into the ECU. Yeah, you could alter the signal if you're savvy with electronics but it would likely run like a dog until warm.

I suggest you plan a weekend away, and just do some cruising. Steady speeds, off boost, and actually LOG your fuel usage from full tank back to full tank. Then see what results you have over 5-600km.

Many people don't know how to drive to achieve great economy, and FWIW, you don't have a vehicle designed to achieve it either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170205
Share on other sites

I'm also running about 10psi. I get to 300k when the needle is almost to the empty but have not had the fuel light come on yet so could probably get more. I am also a lead foot. I used to get only about 220k when I was runnin 16psi on an aftermarket computer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170450
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...