Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dude wtf u guys have turbo cars and get that much Ks..

ive got a na r34 and the max i can get out of a full 70dollar tank is 300Ks MAX.

and i dont even have a heavy foot

all ive got is a 3inch pipe form the engine to back wif a 4inch tip..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3165928
Share on other sites

a tank is 45 litres so im guessing that i get about 22.5 litres per 100ks, which is ridiculous, i dont have a heavy foot but i do drive a lot of short distances do u think that this is the problem

if you do alot of stop and start driving and short trips you'll burn a hell of a lot more fuel than highway driving i used to get that sorta range when i was doing runaround driving in the city, also double check the last time your got a tune up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3166580
Share on other sites

A way you can gain more kms is to change to new oxygen sensors, new fuel filter, change back to stock air box and I think cleaning your air flow meter helps, but if your always having short trips, that explains why you don't get much out of a tank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3166629
Share on other sites

the fact that you do short trips doesn't help.

try getting a new o2 sensor. it may also be that your water temp sensor is dodgy as well so it is constantly running on cold start enrichment even when it is warm, or your thermostat may be a bit dodgy and making the car run cooler, which has a similar effect.

also where you live can make a difference too. where i live is hilly, so that means you will use more fuel than somewhere that is flat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3167132
Share on other sites

yer, as these guys say, im convinced its more the distance of driving you do than how you drive

as soon as i get out on the highway, i get much much better economy, than the normal driving to and from work

would easily get 400/450 ks to a tank on the highway, close to 300/350 to from work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3169168
Share on other sites

a tank is 45 litres so im guessing that i get about 22.5 litres per 100ks, which is ridiculous, i dont have a heavy foot but i do drive a lot of short distances do u think that this is the problem

whaaa???????

My tank is 61litres.....

and I average 10-11 litres per 100km (3" turbo back and a pod) and I dont drive slow either...

There is deffinately something wrong with your cars fuel consumption!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3169813
Share on other sites

02 sensor problem maybe? that will hinder on fuel consumption, i get 300 k's with 16psi modded engine and turbo and thats non conservative driving, id get it looked at or check the 02 sensor that may be a start or tune with aftermarket computer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170024
Share on other sites

Unless my understanding of the narrow-band O2 sensor is wrong, it is for closed loop feedback. ie. cruise conditions. Unlikely that will have any impact on crappy fuel consumption if you are only doing 2-3km short run driving.

Cold start / low temp enrichment comes from the engine temp sensor feedback into the ECU. Yeah, you could alter the signal if you're savvy with electronics but it would likely run like a dog until warm.

I suggest you plan a weekend away, and just do some cruising. Steady speeds, off boost, and actually LOG your fuel usage from full tank back to full tank. Then see what results you have over 5-600km.

Many people don't know how to drive to achieve great economy, and FWIW, you don't have a vehicle designed to achieve it either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170205
Share on other sites

I'm also running about 10psi. I get to 300k when the needle is almost to the empty but have not had the fuel light come on yet so could probably get more. I am also a lead foot. I used to get only about 220k when I was runnin 16psi on an aftermarket computer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170450
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...