Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey G-Units,

Im planning on getting a new TV, cause my big rear projection has crapped its colors.

Just wondering whats better to get, Plasma or LCD? Keep in mind id like to optimize my 360/PS3 experience.

I'd prefer as big as possible if the price is right, but ive had abit of a look around and it seems Plasma 40"-42" with 1080p (i have no idea what 1080p is, but apparently PS3 is great with it) goes for about $2000-$3000. it seems LCD's are abit more expensive...

My budget is about $3000, maybe abit more... but not sure at the moment.

Any recommendations guys?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Around easter time i did all my LCD / Plasma TV research

I bought a LCD

I was reconmend stay away for all the jap stuff with the factory 1 and 2 year warranty

Buy German with 5 year replacement warranty

e.g Lowe , Grundig , Schaub Lorenz

I bought a Schaub Lorenz

STU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3168859
Share on other sites

1080dpi - dots per inch

ie. high definition; its what is required to get full effect of bluray and your ps3/xbox360

Plasma causes burn ins if a static image is on screen for too long. Example; HUD(headsup display) during gaming health, ammo etc.

Plasma also loses brightness after X,xxx amount of hours as the gas depleats

LCD cant produce a deep/dark black as Plasma due to the light shining behind the pixels.

Although new LCD's are solving this problem. Saw commercial on tv

in my opinion;

Go the LCD, it costs more but its much more worth it.

Lot of info here;

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=lcd+vs+p...lient=firefox-a

- Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3168933
Share on other sites

can anyone recommend some brand models of 40"-42" LCD's?

ive had a look on dickies website, but theyve got alot of features that i have NFI what they do.

Maybe just recommend what you have in your home if you think its a pretty good setup, or just advise what other features i should look for when buying an LCD aside from the 1080p res...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3169098
Share on other sites

We just bought a 52" Sony Bravia X series LCD. Its pretty awesome, heaps of inputs for comp, xbox etc. The picture is really crisp and colourful. The whole LCD can't produce black thing is a bit of bullshit I think. At the end of the day, if you can handle using a LCD monitor on a computer, then the transition to a LCD TV isn't that big of a stretch.

While i was looking in the shop, they had a couple of 40" models on display, I think they were around $3000. They looked sweet as, typical quality as you'd expect from sony.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3169162
Share on other sites

A plasma with 1920x1080 res you will be looking above 5 grand. Definately go the sony bravia X series LCD if you can get the money. I Have a 46" X series, and i believe they are by far the best bang for buck. Looks great with my PS3 aswell man. Full 1080p is nuts, although theres not heaps of games for 1080 yet. So for PS3 purposes, try get 1080p. Go down to your local JB Hi-Fi if you have one. They always do good discounts and have awesome prices.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3169232
Share on other sites

Just had a look for bravia, found this http://www.sony.com.au/homecinema/catalog/...ategoryId=23775

Is it any good? its pretty cheap for a 42" LCD...

that one is no good. old model and is not full HD. and it's a projection TV which are pretty poor, hence the cheap price. it's a cheap TV basically. like the new version of rear projection which i'm sure you know are far from optimal.

what you want is a 40inch sony x-series. should be able to score one for around $3600 if you shop around and bargain a bit. retail i think is around $4400, but most places currently have them at $4000. go to JB and tell them $3600 is all you have and you should be sweet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3169870
Share on other sites

I decided to go the LG for the simple fact that its got everything in one.

Built in Digital HDTV tuner and a 250GB HDD to record tv. Can rewind live television and all that sort of stuff.

I dont want to have to set up a HDTV Reciever, then a bloody Recorder. 3 remotes when you can just have 1 :P

http://au.lge.com/md/product/prodcategoryl...ctId=1100001120

Has all the features but is not Full HD. Ah well cant have it all :)

Edited by krzysiu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3170122
Share on other sites

so what exactly is a HDTV tuner? does it just give normal TV in High Def?

also, if i were to buy a DVR HDTV would that means it would have a HDD to record live tv? or is it something completely different?

It if pretty much a digital set top box inbuilt so you can watch digital television. Most LCD TV you have to buy the box separately to get the most of watching normal TV in HDTV on it.

What the DVR is the LG model with a built in HDD. All it does is record TV, so you don't need a DVD recorder or a VCR. With these feature when you are watching TV live and you miss something, you can actually rewind it and see what you missed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3171944
Share on other sites

Their is No need to get a Expenisve Big brand name LCD, I have a bit of technical experience in this field. you dont have to spend $3000+ on a 42" LCD or Plasma. i went and bought one for my folks, their 42" lcd for under 2K, this inlcuded HD BOX, HDMI cable, and other accessories. it was a TCL, it displayed 1080i/p just as good as the pioneers and the Sony's and the german shit. i stood their with 4 other ppl, looking at the Demo models side by side. and could not even pick the slightest difference. Bluray movies and PS3 look just as immaculate on it.. Dont just buy whats the most expensive. do a bit of research and you can save a lot of money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3172275
Share on other sites

dude no one has mentioned samsung yet, but ive got a 40" lcd and it does the job for my ps3 and 360 pretty darn well. its a top quality set with a really bright picture and cause lcd ---> im not worrying about burning in any huds or crazy shit like that

i bought it awhile back so its a model than only goes up to 1080i (res setting just below 1080p) but you can get the new model now with full 1080p and 3 hdmi ports for around 3200 i think - jb should be able to do it for under 3k id say...

then again if you can afford the bravia - go for it cause ive heard nothing but good reports

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172012-plasma-or-lcd/#findComment-3172350
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...