Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys after a few talks with people ive heard the jun 2.7 is a better option than the hks for higher rev reasons ive nailed it down to 2 setup in twins. either stick with the 2871 setup i have or to high mount a set of hks 28/35s and get 700awhp or a single to4z i no the to4z and my current setup will max out around the 600ish awhp make and i just no that i will want more but the twin 2835 setup is double the other 2 setups so if any1 has any ideas or have sum info on there current setups would be much appreciated as i need to decided in 2 days

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172464-goin-to-build-a-jun-27-stroker/
Share on other sites

Hmmmm, well if your seriously considering that kind of setup, I thought you would be clearer about what your doing especially if its in 2 days >_< That will cost a friggen load of money probably 10k on engine alone easily.

If you want 600 rwkw, just choose a setup for 600 rwkw, If you want 400 rwkw then choose a setup........... and so forth. It depends on what you want to do, race, drag, drift etc. The more power you run, the more money it will chew too

Trent (uras) would be a good guy to give you info since he has built some of the toughest cars in Australia but even he's struggling to understand what your after. This might be a better option if your serious about drag racing:

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...e|1&trecs=1

i made 585rwhp on 18psi and 605rwhp on 22psi with a hks t04z on a jun 2.7L and that was with a pretty ordinary tune, and on pump fuel. id say 640-650rwhp in possible with race fuel and more boost but it was starting to run out of legs i reckon. i find the Z is even too laggy and im going down to a gt35 or so because its a pig on the street and who really needs anymore than 500awhp on the street anyway. revving to 4500rpm+ to get it moving is not fun everytime u wanna get into it. i know people say 4500rpm till fullboost aint laggy but drive a 3L or something with a turbo making 500hp with fullboost at 3200rpm and u will understand.

10k for the engine budget is no where near the money whover stated that

crank rods and pistons $10000

n1 block if u want to make big power $3500

machining is $1000

head porting $2000

cams $1100

retainers and valve springs $1000 roughly

gaskets $350

head and main studs $500

jun oil pump $1200

water pump $300

bearings $300

ati balancer $1000+

clutch $2500+

manifold

turbo/s

wastegate

injectors

ecu

coilpacks

cdi ignition

intercooler

pods

etc etc etc

lets just say around $35000+ easy for all the bits u need

oh i forgot the enlarged baffled sump u will need, twin entry fuel rail, fuel reg, fuel pumps, fuel lines and filters/surge tank, exhuast, valve guides, and all the usual rebuild bits like core plugs, oil seals, timing belt.

dont forget the gearbox to handle the power :)

Hi Danoz,

Im 'nearly' done with my HKS 2.8 build, im using a turbonetics GT-K850 which may have the potential to see 700 at the wheels. They rate it up to 850hp, but its a 0.8 ex housing so i doubt it'd see that on a 2.8, but it should be somewhere in between a T04z and a T51R Kai. If you havent chosen yet you could consider the turbonetics turbo. Im hoping for t04z-like response with more power.

Ill save Sydneykid the time and say that the power level you require is not going to be as good as a lesser powered more responsive setup, on the street or track. However my build is more for shits n giggles :kiss: Id rather the option of swapping down to a smaller more responsive turbo, than feel i have to swap up for more power as i have in the past.

My opinion only , T04Z as I said with the larger T4 flanged twin scroll housing (greater gas flow than T3 flanged TS T4 housing) or possibly preferably a GT4088R and they come with a TS T4 flanged GT40 turbine housing . Will need a really flying manifold and everything else .

A .

ok guys thanks for the info so far its a jun 2.7 with jun head gear with 280 cams all the good stuff like jun pump hks pulleys and so fourth. as for turbo the hks 2835 twin kits is a 2 month wait in a back order from japan im also started to look at twin trust td06-20g-8 or the blitz k3 450r. hhhhmmmm so many options

Hey mate I'm building a r32gtr with a rb30 in her the turbo setup im using first is the twin t67-25g 10mm. I have a dogbox getting built so i hope you have got some money set aside for a good gearbox.Remember nice to have lots of power but its better to have the power getting to the ground not your gearbox hitting the ground.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...