Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtrs Stolen In Adelaide

Red Back

By Red Back,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

~Astro~ Enthusiast

~Astro~

Posted
Posted

Well i have heard many of the GTRs around adelaide have been in the past attempted to be stolen or stolen. The guy responsible was eventually put away, was caught red handed in GTR. How true this is, I don't know.

Where i used to park my car (last year), near the river at adelaide uni, the cops said at least 3 cars were taken from there every week. A GTR went missing from there too early last yr. After my number plates dissapeared from there, i decided not to park my car there anymore. The GTR recovered just had a small nick on the passenger side door where what appeared to be a screw driver or something had been instered to open the door. A computer of some sort was then hooked up to the car comp to override any immobs/alarms...The ignition barrel was stuffed.

I know I would be hysterical if this happened to me, despite insurance. I too despise car theives!

benny_blanco Proficient

benny_blanco

Posted
Posted

If you leave your GT-R in public view what do you expect?.. ofcourse some jealous scum back is going to come along one day and try to steal it.

the best insurance is to buy some $2000 car to run around in and leave in public :( lock your GT-R away when not neeed.

Even though I only have an RS-X (which I guess is same thing as a GT-R :) ) I would never leave the thing parked on the street for long.

Sambo33 Grand Master

Sambo33

Posted
Posted
the best insurance is to buy some $2000 car to run around in and leave in public :) lock your GT-R away when not neeed.

exactly what i do!

i dont have a gtr either, but ive put too much time and effort into my car than to have some f**kwit come and mess it up for me.

dnbutts Experienced

dnbutts

Posted
Posted

i aint got a GTR but if i caught anyone fooling around in my 33 id call the cops after done punishing them.

PS, if they know what their doing, chances are their on this forum, tracking you down in the GTRz0r as we speak =P

sskylinee Proficient

sskylinee

Posted
Posted
sounds too organised to me

do you think some person /persons are looking around these forums to find locations of gtr's ?

probably..

apparently the police lurk these forums as well so i wouldnt be surprised that ppl other then skyline enthusiasts go on here

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...