Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

It could... but the best way to fix it is to incoperate your MAF sensor into your intercooling pipes, this way the computer only reads air the engine is getting....

+ it looks better than having it on the air filter...

Thats the way i'm going

hey guys i just bought a Blitz BOV and im wondering weather the power fc can tune it from crappy rev droping?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3179511
Share on other sites

if you put the afm in the cooler pipes wouldn't you have to put it after the bov so that it doesn't register heaps more air? if you have the bov after it, everytime you lift off and the bov opens the afm is going to register all that air passing it as going into the motor so dump heaps of fuel in (which is what happens with the afm in it's stock position. but if you have it right up against the throttle body then it is only double reading the air in a few inches of piping rather than a metre or 2 of air.

btw i am talking about on normal driving and backing off when you go to slow down, not when you are accelerating and changing gears fast.

but i also know plenty of people with r33's running atmo bov that don't have stalling issues. i was talking to a guy a few months back that has had 3 skylines, all with stock ecu and atmo bovs that had never heard of the problem (wasn't a forum user). keeping good spark plugs in them helps get rid of most of the stalling issue. i had the stalling issue with my stock bov.

also the emanage ultimate has a feature in it to help with the stalling issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3180844
Share on other sites

yeah this forum seems to have real issues with atmosphere BOV's im not sure if it is becuase the tuners are shit or if the guys just dont fit em right in the first place, personally i never have, or never will use them for various reasons but plenty of the cars i inherit to tune do and honestly 5mins in the right spots on the map stops stalling altogether.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3181200
Share on other sites

People have issues as they all run stock management and expect a change to the system to work normally.

Either way, i wouldnt use ATMO either.

hmm, it cant work normally

I ran 3 different times on atmo bov on my r33 (hks, blitz and apexi) on stock ecu and HAD NO ISSUE with stalling, rev dropping etc

yes the car did run richer but it drove fine e.g dont stall on me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3181645
Share on other sites

Screw atmo's.

Whhhhy do people still use them, they're past the point of being 'cool', no performance gains, defect target, cause idle issues and sound so try hard.

lol sounds like you got no idea.

Why would i ran my stock r33 bov when it leaks? i had issue with it on my stock turbo, why would i then put it on with my hks turbo running 16psi and over 350hp?

meh.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3181646
Share on other sites

look if you are desperate to fix it

read the pfc faq in my signature

learn how to edit the ign and inj maps

do a map tracer

replicate the stalling

find out what cells it hits when it stalls

and adjust them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3181806
Share on other sites

lol sounds like you got no idea.

Why would i ran my stock r33 bov when it leaks? i had issue with it on my stock turbo, why would i then put it on with my hks turbo running 16psi and over 350hp?

meh.....

It sounds like you're uneducated 'Why would i ran my stock r33 bov when it leaks?'.

I'm running a bit less power than you (248rwkW) and I have had no issues with my factory BOV leaking.

Again, how did you know it was leaking or are just saying that because it doesn't make fully sic sounds.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3181817
Share on other sites

hmm, it cant work normally

I ran 3 different times on atmo bov on my r33 (hks, blitz and apexi) on stock ecu and HAD NO ISSUE with stalling, rev dropping etc

yes the car did run richer but it drove fine e.g dont stall on me

Its mainly based on your driving style.

I bet i could get it to stall easily, and at the same time, i could also keep it form stalling at all.

I went through it all on my own car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172830-blitz-atmo-bov/#findComment-3181900
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...