Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have recently grabbed some R33 gtst calipers which need a bit of a clean up.

They have ha dodgey paint job done on them and I want them back to factory look if possible.

I am happy on splitting them apart with an air compressor etc and running a kit through them.

My question is with regards to getting rid of the paint, grease, dir, crap etc.

Should I acid dip or is this a bad idea?

Can I get them media blasted with a fairly gentle grade?

I am guessing I can whack on bleed nipples over the inlet and bleed attachment to stop media getting into the caliper itself????

Any ideas or opinions would be great

cheers

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172957-rebuilding-calipers/
Share on other sites

i wouldn't acid dip them as this may fcuk the bores and internal brake galleries...

i would leave old bleed nipples in and mask over the piston then sand blast them carefully.

hey mate

I am guessing just taping over the pistons will be enough to stop the media blast damaging them? I was going to bead blast minimum to minimise the amount of crap getting inside the calipers. Does it matter if the exposed part of the calipers are blasted????

I take it that it would be bad for the sleeve where the piston slids into the calipers to get any sort of blasting on its surface???

cheers

James

my advice is. if you can avoid splitting them the better off you'll be. once the two sides are split it can be hard to get it to seal again. I would sand blast them with the nipples in. and brake lines on to prevent crap getting inside. then remove the pistons etc and rebuild, then repaint, then refit. all done :blink:

my advice is. if you can avoid splitting them the better off you'll be. once the two sides are split it can be hard to get it to seal again. I would sand blast them with the nipples in. and brake lines on to prevent crap getting inside. then remove the pistons etc and rebuild, then repaint, then refit. all done :blink:

This is how i did it. No issues with crap getting inside and they come up looking perfect once painted.

Good luck

This is how i did it. No issues with crap getting inside and they come up looking perfect once painted.

Good luck

I take it that it is not hard to get a kit through them if they are not pulled apart? IE to put new piston seals etc in?

I have been quoted $95 per caliper to rebuild by a place in Queanbeyan.....this sound right or a bit pricey? It includes stripping them down, cleaning, new kit. Obviously does not include painting.

I am not sure if powder coating is as good or whatever when compared with powder coating calipers....???

cheers

James

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...