Jump to content
SAU Community

Rebuilding Calipers

jimmmy
 Share

Recommended Posts

jimmmy Apprentice

jimmmy

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

I have recently grabbed some R33 gtst calipers which need a bit of a clean up.

They have ha dodgey paint job done on them and I want them back to factory look if possible.

I am happy on splitting them apart with an air compressor etc and running a kit through them.

My question is with regards to getting rid of the paint, grease, dir, crap etc.

Should I acid dip or is this a bad idea?

Can I get them media blasted with a fairly gentle grade?

I am guessing I can whack on bleed nipples over the inlet and bleed attachment to stop media getting into the caliper itself????

Any ideas or opinions would be great

cheers

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172957-rebuilding-calipers/
Share on other sites
jimmmy Apprentice

jimmmy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i wouldn't acid dip them as this may fcuk the bores and internal brake galleries...

i would leave old bleed nipples in and mask over the piston then sand blast them carefully.

hey mate

I am guessing just taping over the pistons will be enough to stop the media blast damaging them? I was going to bead blast minimum to minimise the amount of crap getting inside the calipers. Does it matter if the exposed part of the calipers are blasted????

I take it that it would be bad for the sleeve where the piston slids into the calipers to get any sort of blasting on its surface???

cheers

James

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

my advice is. if you can avoid splitting them the better off you'll be. once the two sides are split it can be hard to get it to seal again. I would sand blast them with the nipples in. and brake lines on to prevent crap getting inside. then remove the pistons etc and rebuild, then repaint, then refit. all done :blink:

Gts-t Grand Master

Gts-t

Posted
Posted
my advice is. if you can avoid splitting them the better off you'll be. once the two sides are split it can be hard to get it to seal again. I would sand blast them with the nipples in. and brake lines on to prevent crap getting inside. then remove the pistons etc and rebuild, then repaint, then refit. all done :blink:

This is how i did it. No issues with crap getting inside and they come up looking perfect once painted.

Good luck

jimmmy Apprentice

jimmmy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
This is how i did it. No issues with crap getting inside and they come up looking perfect once painted.

Good luck

I take it that it is not hard to get a kit through them if they are not pulled apart? IE to put new piston seals etc in?

I have been quoted $95 per caliper to rebuild by a place in Queanbeyan.....this sound right or a bit pricey? It includes stripping them down, cleaning, new kit. Obviously does not include painting.

I am not sure if powder coating is as good or whatever when compared with powder coating calipers....???

cheers

James

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...