Jump to content
SAU Community

Rev210's 5min $5 Intake Pipe Mod For Your Stagea/skyline.


rev210
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I have been on the forums a while and have done this intake mod a few times without realising that I hadn't put the info up on how to do it.

This mod is as good as any replacement intake pipe you may find for sale but, it may not have the 'bling' you are after.

******** Airflow is improved / Less restriction ***********

******** Pipe will never suck closed *******************

Looks $5 performs like $150.

This is the stagea's intake pipe but, its exactly the same as the R33 gtst one and a few others.

All you need:

- Scissors

- A 13cm peice of off-cut 3inch metal pipe. Stainless is nice but, mild steel is fine. (usually free)

- Two appropriate sized 3inch diameter hose clamps ($5)

How to:

* Remove the intake pipe from the vehicle.

* Block the turbo inlet with a clean rag to prevent dirt getting in.

* Cut a section out of the middle of the flexible intake pipe where shown in pic 1. Scissors do this easy enough. Note to take the middle 2 bumps out cutting along the 'valleys' either side of each bump.

* Take a moment to clean out the peices of intake pipe you are going to re-use.

* Grab the off-cut 3inch diameter metal pipe section and cut it down to 13cm. 13cm is as long as you can realistically go.You can go much shorter 10cm or less if you like and this will give you more flex for re-fit if you want it or if you are using an aftermarket pod that sits in a slightly different position. Run a bit of sand paper or a file over the edges to remove any sharp bits that might cut the rubber pipe.

* Push the 13 cm metal pipe gently but, firmly into the each side of the two intake pipe peices with hose clamps already loose but in place.

* tighten clamps

* re-install

Off you go! :(

post-271-1181977903_thumb.jpg

post-271-1181977921_thumb.jpg

Edited by rev210
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also have done this mod but its slightly different for a R32 GTS/4 as the pipe seems to have a bit more of a curve.

I cut the rubber once in the middle flange and inserted a curved 3"Dia piece about 45degrees and just mooved the

rubber back into the orig shape on the outside but did not clamp it at first because the fit was so tight.

But I had idle issues that went away after clamping as you did. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you get 7+ hp for doing it regardless. Not sure when the stock one sucks closed but, I assume you would need a fair bit of power to do so anyway.

rev210,

7+ hp increase? this sounds awesome rev, but i don't understand how the increase in hp comes about (as i am n00b :P). is the 7+ hp on a standard tune motor, or high tune? and what makes the +7 hp?

looks like a great mod mate!

harts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

some testing was done some time ago both dyno and manometer and there was a reduction in restriction by replacement with a metal pipe. The dyno from memory showed 7rwhp on a stock engine, I wold guess it would increase as the restriction would become more of an issue with higher flow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

some testing was done some time ago both dyno and manometer and there was a reduction in restriction by replacement with a metal pipe. The dyno from memory showed 7rwhp on a stock engine, I wold guess it would increase as the restriction would become more of an issue with higher flow.

sweet mate, thanks for the info :P

harts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a bad way of doing it.

I'm doing a group buy on a full silicone inlet pipe at the moment.

Check in my sig.

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but I though some people might want to know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
you lot should take it as a sign your airfilter is too restrictive

Really? I've got a huge ass K&N filter on there, surely that can't be 'too restrictive' ? It is still a nice red colour and not dirty as well. I am running a highflow gcg on my 25 though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

holy old thread batman!

but yes, if the pipe is sucking shut, then the filter is not letting through as much air as it probably should be.

it's a trade off though. a freeer flowing filter, usually means less filtration, which means more shit in your engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did this mod a couple of years ago and even running stock, S1, boost a difference was felt. I am now trying to get running after fitting the plenum but keep blowing intercooler piping off. No probs with sucking flat. I was running a Redline oiled panel filter. Amazing how much sh*t that collected. Now running pod but want to get back to Redline.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
    • Hi i do you have for stages 260rs?
×
×
  • Create New...