Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Anyone used a linear oil cooling line?

Which is basiclly a aluminium pipe with oil line fittings in each end and machined groves down its length mounted under the car. Used in nascars i am told rather than normal oil to air coolers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173067-linear-oil-cooler/
Share on other sites

where do you run the line?

it's the exact same principle as a radiator style but just finned on the length by the sounds of things.

if you were really clever you could determine the surface area of either type and see how much heat dissipation you'll get out of both...

LOL not that clever saddly.

I tried to get a pic but no luck yet they come in 3, 4, or 6 foot lengths and have about a 3/4 inch bore and about 1 1/2 OD.

My thoughts were to get 2 of the 3 foot items and install them into a aluminium header tank and turn them into an oil to water heat exchanger by running the coolant from the engine into this headertank whick is about 90 degrees on outlet of the engine. The oil would pass through this first then onto the 2 air oilcoolers before getting involved with the up and down bits. And hope fully get over this oil temp issue for good.

I found that running my fuel return through an aluminium pipe back to the tank has worked well as fuel temp has dropped about 10 degrees ( measured on the black swirl pot )

Edited by tacker

all sounds like a bit over overkill to me, for what reason can't you use a normal air to oil cooler? Don't the RB26 engines already have an oil to water cooler as part of where the pressure sender/filter bolt up to the block.

I do like the aluminium pipe for the fuel return line though :D

Nope dont think its over kill!

My version of over kill is having to do track sessions in 43 + degrees (without killing engine). So hot now we have to do night session under lights.

Yes RB26 do have an oil to water heat exchanger, but even with 2 x oil to air coolers my oil temp still bumps 120 degrees. Will also allow another 4 litres of coolant which will give the coolant more time out side the engine which can only be a good thing.

Guys,

Anyone used a linear oil cooling line?

Which is basiclly a aluminium pipe with oil line fittings in each end and machined groves down its length mounted under the car. Used in nascars i am told rather than normal oil to air coolers.

they are nowhere near as effective, great for fluids which have a low density like fuels etc but i used one for pwr steering a while back but it did not cool anywhere near as much as a stack type cooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...