Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Couldn't find anything about the G-Tech performance meter on this forum.

My question is, do these performance meters live up to the hype?

I'd really like the opinions of people who have one and have compared things actual power, 1/4 times and torque to the G-tech values, rather than 'I have a mate who has one of these and says...

Here is two different models I'm considering buying:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/G-TECH-GTECH-PRO-SS...bayphotohosting

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/G-TECH-PRO-RR-ONBOA...1QQcmdZViewItem

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173102-g-tech-performance-meter/
Share on other sites

the g-tech i have is a little older then those and not as many features. they are a very good indication but not 100% accurate. also not recommended for the street as there is very high speeds involved when dong a 1/4 mile pass :D

isn't that what the strip's for?

Yeah, I meant just more for launches and stuff. I've got a 110km/h road near me that sees very little use, so I can accelerate up to 110, which is good but I've got no way of monitoring performance. The closest drag strip to me is an hour and a half away so I don't get that many occasions to get down there. I'm not looking to piss people off with idiotic story's just trying to determine if the g-tech units are worth the money.

the g-tech i have is a little older then those and not as many features. they are a very good indication but not 100% accurate. also not recommended for the street as there is very high speeds involved when dong a 1/4 mile pass :D

Cheers for your response, do they actually give a good indication of HP?

Ive got the last model,

Handy little unit, very consistant and i think its supposed to be accurate to 1/10th of a second or something.

Regardless of its accuracy compared to the track, its good to compare results between mods.

Take it for what it is...a good little performance indicator, but its not the be all and end all.

There are a total of four different units.

The cheap ones you see on EBay are the oldest.

The RR & SS models are the most recent.

I have an RR. In short for the money they are very, very good. They can accurately give you a quarter mile time & at the same time via the downloads allow you to see (in the comfort of your lounge room) which rpm launches worked best. When used on the circuit they can allow you to pinpoint the effectiveness of different modifications you may have made to your car. I would thouroughly recommned them if you want to dip your toes into the cheaper end of the data logging world.

Oh and don't bother buying the old, cheap ones. They are nowhere near as good.

Edited by djr81

I've got one of the new G-Tech SS' and its quite good. I find it reasonably accurate (G-Tech time vs stopwatch time), but I mainly use it to measure lateral G's. ;)

I'm up to 1.23G's on 17" RT215s, and 1.29Gs on 18" D02G's.

Thanks for the last few responses, very informative. I've decided to import a ss unit directly from G-Tech.

To be honest for the extra coin I would recommend the RR.

You can log & export data & then use it how ever you like. The attached image shows a gain in both balance & lateral grip. Obviously the circuit is anticlockwise.

post-5134-1182212866_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81
  • 6 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I'm also interested in picking up one of these...but not for timing or drag info, more so, i'm after one to log information pre and post modification, so i can test certain equipment and see if it makes any sort of a gain/difference without having to 'feel' for it. Sometimes one may be overcome by the money they've spent on an modification, that they believe that it really DOES make a difference, when it doesn't...is this performance measuring tool accurate in terms of, Power and Acceleration?

Cheers,

Cartz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...