Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

shell in caloundra has it to, i use it and it makes a bit of a diffrence, its pretty good on econnamy i get about 300 ks from about 32 litres

It's pretty rar that they actually have it in stock though, i used to travel to caloundra pretty much every day and sometime's they'de not have it for a month. I don't travel down the way much anymore but with my previos experiences they have it abot 50% of the time. Now what i wanna know is why doesn't the shell in mooloolaba have it?!?!?!

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, it doesn't make much of a difference if you're not tuned for it.

I was getting a wonky idle out of it when cold, used to run right down on the 600RPM stall line, drop down below it and cause the anti-stall to kick in.

Back to 95 till I get an ECU

Yeah, it doesn't make much of a difference if you're not tuned for it.

I was getting a wonky idle out of it when cold, used to run right down on the 600RPM stall line, drop down below it and cause the anti-stall to kick in.

Back to 95 till I get an ECU

You can notice a difference, you can feel it ' seat of the pants ' wise easily enough.. i could feel it both on the power fc and the stock gtr ecu

Yeah I had my tune done on this 100octane stuff...

Ran at willowbank a full quarter mile and got no higher than 20 knock levels which is fine, considering you rev to redline for 4 gears before your over the line.

Then two or three weeks later I ran there again with just 98 ron and got knock levels up over 80 which is really really bad, also fouled the plugs.

Has nothing to do with the fuel being bad, its all to do with the tune the pfc had and the fact we were able to push the timing a we bit more advanced with 100ron.

Im considering having a touch up tune just running 98 ron, and putting another degre on the cams to see if I can maintain 337rwkw on 98ron fuel.

Rather than having to put 100ron to get that power level, however last dyno day we got 300rwkw from 98ron on just 18psi so its allot of effort to push for that extra 10% power but when you get into 4th gear down the quarter and your car becomes like a flying phone book you need all the power you can get to reach the line is a fashionable manner. :wave:

Will be interesting to see! But certainlly wont be buying 100ron until Shell make it a more reasonable price... And they wont until a competitor bring in some competition...

yeah i usually fill up with v-power (98), but the other night i had a go with v-power racing (100) becuase the shell at runcorn had been out of the regular v-power for like a week and i refuse to put in anything lower than 98 in my car. anyway noticed the difference right away. much smoother in accel and at top end speeds. i would get this all the time but 1.45 is a bit much for my budget to cope with every week

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...