Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just saved up enough money to be able to purchase another car but i have a hard choice ahead me i am intrested in the above cars, and the requirments out of the cars are 250hp, easily modified and extensive body kit + exterior mod range. So i stuck between the R32 or S13 is well within my budget with a couple of goodies going staright on or R33 or S14 where there will be lack of goodies for a while, tuff choice just after some opinions and thoughts

Thanks Jim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173578-r32-or-s13-r33-or-s14/
Share on other sites

Id prob say not the s13. Can look tacky with bodykits etc, getting quite dated. s14 is a good choice if its series 2 olther wise the 33 looks the goods with the right kit and can be easily modified to the power level you want. The rb20 in the 32 will take a bit more to get to the same level.

Buy the cheapest 32 you can find that's got decent paint work. spend the rest on an rb25, coilovers, swaybars and whatever else your budget can afford.

imo 33's are the better car only because of the engine. 32 has a better handling and more direct steering.

As for looks it's down to personal preference. i prefer 32 and 34 looks as i think they are fairly simiular tbh. each to there own.

In saying that i had a drive of a friends S14 a while ago and that's only got 180rwkw and it felt very responsive and handled great (lighter car), until smoke came pouring out the back and apparently the turbo gasket had blown.

Since i have one i will go for s14a! DONT GET SERIES I, the turbo aint as good!

Light and cheap, i have been told that fuel consumption is much better than a 33 by a mate and it does make sense!

I cant really compare but im happy with what i got

Unigroup were shocked and said they had never see it before so i dont know if you can go directly by it but i got 203.4rwkw with 16.5psi (yavus still cant believe its a stock turbo because of how easily it was doing it but it is), ces 3" zorst, hybrid intercooler, 040 fuel pump, SAFC II, pod, bov, and other small things. So it took nothing to go up from around 110rwkw, so im very happy with my car, the zorst is the best part since i got the quiet version so long trips are no issue at all! in fact i look forward to them!

Also i dont know why my avatar has rb20e in it!! i didnt put it there so im sorting it out! my car has an sr20 blacktop (stock) just incase there was any confusion!

Edited by Quicksilvia

you probably thought that because 33 steering is the least direct out of all the skylines and silvias. might make the car feel lighter and easier to handle. they revised the steering and made it feel more like the r32 when they developed the 34's. direct steering is better for racing and more assisted softer steering is better for a daily driver.

What do you want the car for? just a daily or a leisure toy...

Since i have one i will go for s14a! DONT GET SERIES I, the turbo aint as good!

Light and cheap, i have been told that fuel consumption is much better than a 33 by a mate and it does make sense!

I cant really compare but im happy with what i got

Unigroup were shocked and said they had never see it before so i dont know if you can go directly by it but i got 203.4rwkw with 16.5psi (yavus still cant believe its a stock turbo because of how easily it was doing it but it is), ces 3" zorst, hybrid intercooler, 040 fuel pump, SAFC II, pod, bov, and other small things. So it took nothing to go up from around 110rwkw, so im very happy with my car, the zorst is the best part since i got the quiet version so long trips are no issue at all! in fact i look forward to them!

Also i dont know why my avatar has rb20e in it!! i didnt put it there so im sorting it out! my car has an sr20 blacktop (stock) just incase there was any confusion!

there is no difference between series 1 or 2 for the S14 in the engine.

if you are making 203rwkw in an S14, you do not have a stock turbo.

even S15's struggle to make 200rwkw with pfc and supporting mods and something like 17psi of boost.

my series 1 made 175rwkw with 15psi boost and safc, fmic, pump, exhaust, pod etc..

same dyno as you.

same tuner as you.

I hate these threads, everyone recomends the car that they own and then bag the others saying rb25>rb20, r33s are boats, rb>sr, etc. It turns into an arguement of who has the best car

get the car you want and like the most

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...