Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello :)

I seem to be having a fuse blowing problem... my amp, whenever turned on, will blow my inline fuse... one of the long cylindrical gold tipped ones...

the last thing i want to do is send my amp off for repair, cause it wont be back for some time, most defenately not before SNS...

I took the RCAs out thinking it may have been a shitty signal... that was one fuse...

I took the power out to the subs out, thinking it may have been stripped and earthing somewhere... that was two fuses...

so its still blowing fuses with just positive, negative and a remote signal...

I only have one fuse left, and im starting to think its almost certainly the amp acting up :thumbsup: which i really dont want to believe...

I also have it sitting on my lap, and i can't see any problems with it... I have seen quite a few amps, good and bad to know what to look for, and i cant find anything wrong here... I did find a tiny little switch that is name SW1 and has an on and off feature... im assuming this is for the crossover and gain controls...

in the mean time, im going to go hook up another amp, if i can find a 20 amp fuse...

Specs:

Amp: Earthquake PHD5000W 3kwRMS amp

Fuses: 60 amp x4 blown :wacko: 1 left

Wiring: 8 Gauge straight from battery, through a fuse, and neg back to battery again (couldn't find any problems with the wiring)

extra notes: When all are together, pow, neg, and remote, there is a high pitch whining noise, which gains amplitude for a little while, then fizzes out as the fuse melts... its ghey :O

so yeah... anyone have any ideas... anyone.... anyone??? :( probably shouldn't have asked on a saturday night at 7:45...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/
Share on other sites

try a fatter gauge wire? say a 4 gauge?

all the times ive installed systems and blown fuses was cause i didnt have the negative wire from the amp grounded correctly

checked that... its been working for some time now, and this happened out of nowhere... and like i said, its a 60 amp fuse, so it doesn't just pop willy nilly, you can hear too much going through it, heating up, then you get to watch it melt :P

and i dont think a larger gauge wire will help...

ill go double check all the wiring though, just for you :)

anyone else got any ideas i may have missed? im not sending it off til after SNS... it ay not work, but it gunna look like it can :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3195096
Share on other sites

Hey there,

I'd throw a post up on caraudioaustralia forums, they may be able to help further.

Do you have a R33 (battery in boot) so you connected the ground back to the battery? What are the spec's on the amp (watts RMS @ what ohm rating) and how many subs are you running, and the ohm rating of each sub.

I would have thought both your wiring and fuse rating is insufficient for this amp anyways. Would have thought you would need a proper ANL type fuse (i thinks its called that) of at least over 100amps to get the most out of this amp, and you'd be best to go at least 4ga (even for a short run), 2ga even better.

Does the fuse blow when you turn the amp on but have it on very low volume, or no sound at all, or do you crank the system and watch the fuse melt??

Fixxxer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3196258
Share on other sites

the fuse melts without a signal going to the amp... as soon as the amp is activated, it melts... it never used to, hence why i have come to the conclusion that this is not normal :)

people tend to over compensate wiring, i dont know why... 2ga is over kill... 4ga might be a bit better, but its got 8 gauge plugs in it, fitting 4ga would be rather difficult, though i may do it down the road when i come to a boot isntall that is more then temporary...

yes, R33... and its back on the battery cause it is pretty much the closest, and best ground point...

the amp is 3000wattsrms at 4ohm mono i believe, the subs are 1000watts rms each...

I think 100 amps is a bit much also, there is a higher chance of damage to the amp if that were to happen...

though i will make a thread on CAA ;) thanks for your advice...

anyone else??? :( please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3196322
Share on other sites

I love TLA's :)

yeah i posted it up there yesterday... they were all very kind in telling me that my wiring isn't big enough, and that my grounds weren't good enough... but other then that, no real help...

i'll do my last test tonight hopefully, then send it off for repairs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173918-blowing-fuses/#findComment-3197894
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...