Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help Guys : (

Conno's

By Conno's,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Conno's Newbie

Conno's

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Guys,

I was wondering if you could give me some advice on my screwed up situation.

2 years ago I imported a 89' Skyline GTR and it was broken into and thrashed, they have blown the engine. Did a compression test and first 5 cylinders are fine, but there is no real pressure in the 6th cylinder. They did some damage to the dash, the boost gauge was stolen, damged the key holes and the ignition barrel is busted.

Mind you the car was stolen a week before it was going to be complied so it wasn't insured.

I have had the car in storage for 2 years costing me an arm and a leg, trying to save the money for the rebuild but because of the bad financial situation I was in to start with and some family health issues, i just havent managed to get the rebuild money.

I am now at the point where I need to get rid of it. My problem is though I have to weigh up whether I should sell as is, or will I loose more money rebuilding it. The work to comply the car has been done, but I can't get a green slip, because you cant comply the car fully in its state at the moment, (Emissions etc).

Can I sell an uncomplied car?

Anyway, any words of advice would be greatly appreciated.

Matt

Edited by Conno's
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173922-need-help-guys/
Share on other sites
padey Community Regular

padey

Posted
Posted
Hey Guys,

I was wondering if you could give me some advice on my screwed up situation.

2 years ago I imported a 89' Skyline GTR and it was broken into and thrashed, they have blown the engine. Did a compression test and first 5 cylinders are fine, but there is no real pressure in the 6th cylinder. They did some damage to the dash, the boost gauge was stolen, damged the key holes and the ignition barrel is busted.

Mind you the car was stolen a week before it was going to be complied so it wasn't insured.

I have had the car in storage for 2 years costing me an arm and a leg, trying to save the money for the rebuild but because of the bad financial situation I was in to start with and some family health issues, i just havent managed to get the rebuild money.

I am now at the point where I need to get rid of it. My problem is though I have to weigh up whether I should sell as is, or will I loose more money rebuilding it. The work to comply the car has been done, but I can't get a green slip, because you cant comply the car fully in its state at the moment, (Emissions etc).

Can I sell an uncomplied car?

Anyway, any words of advice would be greatly appreciated.

Matt

What does the car owe you? R32 GTRs are going for between $18-$25k depending on condition. It's a tough one, but maybe you'd get more back in sell the parts, then repairing it.

Just so everyone knows .. Importing a new engine from japan is cheaper than getting it rebuilt here..

Not that I want to know, fingers crossed my engine holds together, but where, what type of build level?

ap

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173922-need-help-guys/#findComment-3199571
Share on other sites
DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted

obviously getting it from japan you'd have to know someone over there... just to check its condition etc.. www.exciteautos.com.au see if he will import it for you... I was talking about a R32 hes rebuilding with him and he said rebuilding the engine costs more here so we imported an engine .. it was an RB20 .. but im sure goes for all engines

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173922-need-help-guys/#findComment-3199646
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

no way. a second hand RB20 costs like $1000 bucks. a second hand RB26 is more like $4 or $5 thousand. rebuilding them both is the same cost. so yes an RB20 may be cheaper to buy another one, but a 26 is not. and a rebuilt motor offers far more potential than another second hand one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173922-need-help-guys/#findComment-3199845
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iamhe77
      Might import a stagea

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • iamhe77
      Stagea identification?

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...