Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've always thought that my car would have stock turbos which have not been high flowed but my friend raised an interesting point yesterday.. he thinks that i should try to put the boost upto 1.3, 1.4 or even 1.5 bar to see if the turbos have been high flowed or they r just stock ones... he says that if they r stock ones, the boost will just drop when been overboosted.. so no damage to the turbos or the engine... but i am wondering if i should do this or not coz i am worried about the negative damage it *might* cause...

what do u think guys??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17401-high-flow-or-stock/
Share on other sites

If you do that the ceramic blades will fly off straight through your cut and both your turbo and cat will be ****ED!

Tell your friend to stop giving advice!

Also any "boost cut" that you hit will be caused by the ECU not turbo!

And that amount of boost might cause detonation which could **** your engine!

thanks for the advice guys... (i was gonna try it next monday at EC... :( thank God i posted this stupid idea here first..) i will stick with my "fast-but-got-used-to-and-need-more-neck-snapping-boost" 1.2bar .... :D

ps : my friend used to drive a 600+hp GTO so i thought he actually knew what he was talking about... it appears to be he has nfi just like me...~~ keke

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...