Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Could someone please help me with my r32 skyline? Basically I've ran over a kerb, and I broke the castor rod and bent the control arm (front left). I've bought new one and tried to put it back in myself. however, it wont seem to go in... like it's not allign... I dunno if I've damaged the chasis also or maybe the strut aswell. Here's are some pics of it any comments would be appriciated thanks.

post-29533-1182917753_thumb.jpg

post-29533-1182918194_thumb.jpg

post-29533-1182918358_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174408-hit-a-kerb-need-help/
Share on other sites

Did the same thing a year or so ago now and i know how much it hurts. Id suggest getting the car to a mechanic or at least a wheel/suspension repairer as there can be some "unseen" problems. Essentially when i did it the damage was only minor but it still needed to be checked on a chassis aligner, which as one of the checks to make sure the chassis rails are still aligned. If the accident was low speed then you should be ok.

Secondly i damaged my hub without knowing it and had to replace it. You will be suprised what a slow speed gutter collision will do!

Have you tried fitting the x-member end first, then connecting the hub?

That would be my advice as well. Then fit the castor rod to the LCA, then pull the hub forward and drop it onto the ball joint.

Check for other bent stuff too. The sway bar link is sitting at a funny angle, but that may be due to the lack of a castor rod to pull everything forward

yeah I tried that still wont do it, is it meant to be an easy fit or are you meant to force it in? also could the strut be fuekd?

I got the x member in and it went it pretty easily it just I cant get the hub in its been pushed back I think... so does this mean there's no chasis damage since I managed to get the castor rod and lower suspension arm in?

Edited by gtst7
yeah I tried that still wont do it, is it meant to be an easy fit or are you meant to force it in? also could the strut be fuekd?

I got the x member in and it went it pretty easily it just I cant get the hub in its been pushed back I think... so does this mean there's no chasis damage since I managed to get the castor rod and lower suspension arm in?

There's no "strut".

Disconnect everything - hub, sway bar, castor rod - from the control arm.

The arm should be a tight fit into the x-member, and may need a spot of "persuasion" (if you get my drift). The hub will slop around because it's only held by the upper control arm. Once you have the arm attached and bolted to the x-member, the hub can be swung into position and connected to the ball joint. Now you can start thinking about connecting the castor rod and sway bar.

The castor rod forms the third side of the triangle to keep the wheel in position, so you may need to lever the hub assembly into position so the castor rod can be connected to the control arm. Connect the castor rod to the chassis first. Then move the control arm / hub to meet the castor rod.

Just studying the photos again. It looks like the link pin on the sway bar might be interfering with the positioning of the hub. Try tucking it back down away from the hub.

Also, is the car jacked up on both sides? Jacking up one side only loads the sway bar and can create difficulties getting stuff to line up properly.

My son did the exact same thing to his r32.

He broke the radius rod and bent the lower control arm back.

It bent the back of the crossmember backward from the LCA inner bush bolt outward.

After we straightened it and put it all back together with a new arm and radius rod he refused to pay for a wheel alignment and wore out a new set of tyres in 3 months.

When he finally got a wheel alignment he found the wheel was still pushed back 14mm.

We fitted another radius rod support bracket to fix it.

Even though the old one didn't look seriously bent it was.

Compare the LHS of your crossmember with the RHS side to see if it's bent.

Get a wheel alignment when your done.

yeah I jacked it up on both side... cant really see ne diff cept the strut seems a bit bent on the crash side... I mean can the strut actually be the solution?

By the strut do you mean the hub and knuckle upright assembly?

I don't think it bend in my son's car but it's hard to tell because it's not straight in the first place.

If it is bent it would cause all sorts of problems.

my car had same problem when i bought my R34 GTT

may be it was from japan... the caster rod was bented and left had side tire was wearing out sosososososo baddly....

i had to buy adjustable caster rod and changed them to adjust... my whole front bit was bented little bit... no one can tell its bented but if you see the nose part i see the bonnet and body doesnt lined properly... anyway... if your front bent due to that problem... adjustable caster rod will do. and wheel alighnment..

my tire is not wearing out anymore.. im happy now anyway

its all good unless i put NOS on....lol

good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...