Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my name is Craig :rant: .

I'm building the RB30dohc

Was wondering what inlet plenum would be best suited 4 this setup other then goin custom ?

Even turb setup, injectors manifold etc pls

96 R33 RB25 head.

Edited by HR31DRFT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175812-my-rb30dohc-build/
Share on other sites

You dont say which "DOHC" ?

Easiest would be to go with the orig std setup, but as someone who has built a custom Intake plenum I would say it may not be worth the expense for the gain in performance.

I was never able to quantify the results from mine unfortunately as I fitted it with many other mods at the same time, but I dont think it made much diference except in looks and presentation.

Though it did enhance the FMIC fitting with no unesessary longer I/C pipes etc.

Definitely look at a R26 head and its std plenum.

Rb25 head for ~$1000 + ~$700-900 for a decent plenum.

That 2k can go a long way in buying a good rb26dett head and its std plenum and better factory cams.

Got this 25de head 4 $400

Was gona go 26 but found it hard 2 get complete. Covers etc this stuff can be a bitch 2 get in parts.

I dont mind goin the greddy plenum, 10k has been put aside 4 the engine build, already have block + head, rods, N1 water + oil pump.

N still have 10k hehe, i kind of like keeping 10k in my bank 4 as long as i can :rant:

I was gonna go Borneo setup, but alot of custom work what will be a headf*k.

I only want around 300-350 atw but 4 a while :rant:

As turboX said which head are you using?? RB25, 20, 26?

turboX your plenum looks pretty intersting any links to the build??

Just follow the link on my sig below and go to my website listed at the bottom -there's about three pages on it.

Got this 25de head 4 $400

now somoene please correct me if im wrong..

By using a DE head.. you will have NA compression.. So.. about 10:1.

Because your going turbo.. you will have an turbo engine with a 10:1 comp ratio.. so.. you wont be able top push alot of boost though it.. engine longitivity will be greatly sacraficed.. and chances are.. your going to blow your head (hahaha)

Does the engine get its comp ratio via the head or the pistons/cylinders?

just a passing thought.. :dry:

Car is fully decked out in suspension love.

Kaaz 2way hehe fun times.

Its actually 300-350 hp not kw

Car is awesome now, dont need anymore power from the rb20 but i want 2 build a engine.

RB30dohc POWER

This bitch is gonna be sick.

now somoene please correct me if im wrong..

By using a DE head.. you will have NA compression.. So.. about 10:1.

Because your going turbo.. you will have an turbo engine with a 10:1 comp ratio.. so.. you wont be able top push alot of boost though it.. engine longitivity will be greatly sacraficed.. and chances are.. your going to blow your head (hahaha)

Does the engine get its comp ratio via the head or the pistons/cylinders?

just a passing thought.. :dry:

Lumpy is building the engine, i'll leave that up 2 him.

Compresion ratio's will be adjusted 4 optimum performance, but like i said thats 4 the gurus...

I dont like talkin about stuff i dont have a full quid on.

Lumpy is building the engine, i'll leave that up 2 him.

Compresion ratio's will be adjusted 4 optimum performance, but like i said thats 4 the gurus...

I dont like talkin about stuff i dont have a full quid on.

Nice answere.. should tell that to the people that like to talk shit..

Keep us updated!..

be fantastic to see how she runs!..

Good luck and keep the details comming!

now somoene please correct me if im wrong..

By using a DE head.. you will have NA compression.. So.. about 10:1.

Because your going turbo.. you will have an turbo engine with a 10:1 comp ratio.. so.. you wont be able top push alot of boost though it.. engine longitivity will be greatly sacraficed.. and chances are.. your going to blow your head (hahaha)

Does the engine get its comp ratio via the head or the pistons/cylinders?

just a passing thought.. :dry:

NA head is fine; it won't affect comp ratio as that is achieved by the domed pistons the N/A motor uses.

Drop the head on a N/A RB30E bottom end and you will end up with around the usual 8.2-8.3:1 comp ratio.

The N/A bottom end with the SOHC head achieves a 9:1 comp ratio; the DOHC lowers the comp from 9:1 to 8.2-8.3:1 because its combustion chamber is larger.

Yeh not rushing anything !!!

Building the engine in 2 parts...

Bottom 1st

All little bits like crank collar etc are goin 2 be used.

Using Mahle racing pistons

Head 2nd

Porting polishing work but really not much is required but doing anyway cuz i'm there u no.

Comp ratio's will be worked out so they are exact for fuel i'm using and what i'm doing with it.

But yeh havnt looked into it yet, just read and fully undestood the RB30dohc build guide.

As all says, a really good builder is assy the engine so i'm not gonna loose sleep over ratio's

I will blow the project out a couple of months if it takes, 2 get things exact or as close as poss.

No dead lines

Then paint :dry: lol

Thanks guys i appreciate the feedback

P.s i work at Coventry's so alot of gear is from here cutting costs big time.

U gotta cut at least 1 corner hey.

Yeh not rushing anything !!!

Building the engine in 2 parts...

Bottom 1st

All little bits like crank collar etc are goin 2 be used.

Using Mahle racing pistons

Head 2nd

Porting polishing work but really not much is required but doing anyway cuz i'm there u no.

Comp ratio's will be worked out so they are exact for fuel i'm using and what i'm doing with it.

But yeh havnt looked into it yet, just read and fully undestood the RB30dohc build guide.

As all says, a really good builder is assy the engine so i'm not gonna loose sleep over ratio's

I will blow the project out a couple of months if it takes, 2 get things exact or as close as poss.

No dead lines

Then paint :rolleyes: lol

Thanks guys i appreciate the feedback

P.s i work at Coventry's so alot of gear is from here cutting costs big time.

U gotta cut at least 1 corner hey.

a light polish is the way to go, ive seen more gains from mates who have done a mild polish than a major polish when aiming for lower hp.

i got most of my rebuild parts from coventry for my rebuild through my mate when he used to work there. it was probably the cheapest rebuild in history lol (just a std rebuld). i got pretty much everything but the rings from them.

goodluck with the build mate.

Thanks dude,

Head is gettin a light polish, we all need a polish every now n then :rolleyes:

Will be a great package.

Will keep ya's posted.

Goin 26 head now thanks Richard :D

POWER TIME :D

Edited by HR31DRFT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...