Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not sure to be honest...I just know dez is really not happy coz even if he had a replacement set it'd mean re doing all the needles n shit which takes some effort...

maybe see what amec has to say ?

Edited by **JaR**
  • Replies 190
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah i know i had my dash apart heaps becuase one of my needles fell off while driving

shall i leave it in your hands and see what amec can do for us, see what our options are

to be honest i cant even be bothered dealing with it....if anyone wants to contact amec they're more than welcome too...and post back in here if anything can be done but yeah...a batch of 20 was made so i dont like our chances unfortunately :P

ah ok thanks for being honest, i have rung Amec before and he is a very nice man to talk to so IF anything CAN be done i know he will more more than willing

How much are they??? Any chance of still getting black ones??? Im a good bloke so if u can organise something would be very much so appreciated. Oh and also how much of a pain in the ass is it to recalibrate shit so it reads accurate speeds?

was in in the heat wave that it warped, it was like 3 days of 40deg here

mine are still fine but i only installed the speedo gauge the rest is in my room guess white cars must be cooler in the sun coz thats where i left mine in that heat wave and mine didnt warp

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...