Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There's so many ways to make money, so I say just get the car now. The house can come later (probably bad financial advice, but a nice car is worth it).

Anyway, my alternate suggestion is that you wait a bit and get a Toyota Chaser.

And Strich9ine - I too had a fair amount of money saved by the time I was 19 and also only spent bugger all each week. I know you might find it a bit hard to believe, but Ease up on him a bit. It's quite possible.

  • 2 weeks later...

that was my concern. Getting into financial trouble before i've even left uni and got a proper full time job.

If i get a fixed interest rate, doesn't the RBA decisions on rates become mute for me? :confused:

that's another thing, will i be able to actually find ppl to rent? Only like a $400K place, about 400pw, i'd have a 200K loan. Repayments are around $1100 a month. After spliting rent money with dad, that's like $800 a month going straight to the loan. Prob a little more cos a month isn't exaclty 4 weeks. So i'd have $300 to settle every month. with about $1500 net every month i'm earning that leaves $1200 a month just for me, which is more than enough. So would prob thro whatever i've got at the loan after what's left.

If i don't have tennants? Well servicing the loan wouldn't leave me with much, bout $100 a week. But for someone in my position, i don't spend $100 a week. But still, i wouldn't wanna be just putting everything i earn into loan repayments.

All these larger financial concerns are making think more about a R34 GT-T, and just that. One came thru on Geoff's list $28700 + ORC's!!!! That's like $30k on the road!! And auction grade 4.5!! Was soooo tempted just to go "Geoff, can i have it pls!" Too bad it was the pewter colour :)

but yeah, very valid points Franks, thanks.

cheers.

Guest wilco

If no one mentioned it yet (this thread is too long for me to read) you need to realise you cannot claim the interest on your loan when it has been used for personal assets. You would need to take the amount used to buy the unit, and claim that as a percentage of the total loan, and the % used to buy the car is just costing you money.

You would be wise to put your money into investments, people who put money into invrstments at your age have a LOT more money a few years down the track, especially if you have the opportunity to buy something decent like that from the beginning. Of course when you sell it you'll poay CGT as well, but driving the Skyline you'll pay performance car tax anyways (speeding fines etc).

hey wilco,

ah... don't quite understand ur post there. So i can't just add say $35k to the loan for the car? Some catch there for that?

CGT? hahaha, performance car tax. Wouldn't be surprised if bracksie just made that one up anyway! stupid prick ;)

oh by the way, i didn't say earlier but thanks to Shell before for her post!! Cheers dude :D

I havent read most of this thread, because its long :)

but ...

if you have 400k then why don't you buy two apartments?

or units/townhouses/whatever

in Perth at the moment, 200k will get you an alright-ish unit. Not sure about other cities. But then if you have cheaper units or townhouses, and try and get them in trendy-ish areas, you can aim them at the young executive market.

I rented one such unit last year ... I think they sold it when I moved out for around 240k. The owners had only bought it about a year and a half/two years earlier for 200k.

I'd do that I reckon.

Then after a year you could refinance your mortgage, and get your R34 :D

Guest wilco

SS8 you should really talk to an accountant at the very least, or there may be a tax accountant on here? I have the luxury of a former boss being a very good tax accountant so my advice is free :P

There sure are ways around CGT, depends how long you keep the place for and so on, once again before you go a lawyer, I'd be seeing an accountant at least.

You also have deducations such as the depreciation on the asset and plant (curtains, carpet, water heater, light fittings, air con etc etc) so you'll need to know a few things before you jump in, as don't forget strata rates, council rates, water rates, emergeny services levy, management fees, on top of your interest, but then you have a stack of deductions.

Property is a good thing, but then there are also people saying that it is a bubble waiting to burst. If you are in it for the long term, it will always come good eventually.

The best thing with investments it to KNOW about what you are investing in, or if you are just the guy with the money, then make sure the guy who is doing the leg work for you (your dad?) knows about investing in what you choose, be it property or otherwise.

In the three years I have been investing I could have bought a new R34 GTR on the profit (but profit makes more profit, and at some point I'll call it a day and buy something for myself besides my broken ass shit pile Commode) and some mods to go along, and I am just a dabbler, so think, you could be cruising in your modded R35 with after market quad turbo's.

Don't listen to the real estate agent, they are paid to sell, look into the property in the area you are thinking, look at the returns, the location, the number of property for sale in the area, what is popular (houses, units etc).

Lots of stuff to check out, that's half the fun though.

Guest wilco

Oops, yeah you can claim the interest used for investment purposes, say:

Unit $200k

Car $50k

Loan = $250k

Claimable interest on loan = 80%

Make sure you keep GOOD records too. Rare to be auditted but if you are you'll need to show how you arrived at your numbers.

The other thing, is on investments you usually would not have an interest/principle loan, you just repay the interest, leaving more money in your land to use for other things (logically other investments), and you would not want interest only on your car loan (don't know if they woulkd even allow this as it would probably be considered some sort of All-In-One loan). You'd need to check this out.

Car loans are the work of the devil, I'd keep if seperate if I had a car loan at all, and pay it off quick smart, or better still don't take a loan out on a car, put your money into an investment or just leave it in ING at 4.75% as a worst case.

Also as I saw someone mentioned, interest rates are low, and are expected to drop again twice more this year by .25% each time, but 10 years ago interest rates were at 10.5%, and they will probably go back there in the next ten years, so you don't want to be over extended when that happens. Make sure if rates go up, you can afford it. In the last few years they have varied from about 5.5% to 7.5%, and that is just since I have been playing.

Remember if you are negative geared you are still losing money. You want to try and make it a neutral investment, or worst case positive geared. Neagative gearing is acceptable once you are at the top tax bracket barely ($62501+ as of next fiscal year). And once you are there, you have the feasable option of salary sacrficing into a novated lease to buy a car :P

Tax is a f*&king mess, lucky you are starting now :P

Originally posted by BigDatto

Work your ass off for the next few years, you'll have enough equity in the property to buy *whatever * vehicle you desire thru a line of credit at 4-5% rather than crippling yourself now

I couldn't agree more. If you get the car first, and decide to get an apartment later - let's face facts - you won't want to get rid of the car! that's the mistake I made. It's smarter to get rich first, and then get the car. You'll be able to buy it with pocket-change :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...