Jump to content
SAU Community

Got A Compression Test Done Today

Fujiwara

By Fujiwara,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fujiwara Proficient

Fujiwara

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here is the WHOLE story.

Purchased a Skyline R34 GTT from E&M Unique Motors 3 weeks ago *** Not flaming them so i don't see why i can't mention the dealership ***

I had it inspected by Stateroads before i took delivery and i also went over the vehicle and had it for a test drive.

1st issue - Took it for a dyno run at CRD. Was pulling 110kw@tw. Was an issue with the boost controller not being set right so they fixed this and now it's running 200.5kw@tw on 12psi.

2nd issue - Clutch release bearing was stuffed. They took the car in and replaced the clutch and machined the flywheel free of charge. Although i had to pay for a hire car...

3rd issue - Went to Advan today and got the compression test performed.

Cylinder 1 - 175

Cylinder 2 - 170

Cylinder 3 - 175

Cylinder 4 - 170

Cylinder 5 - 75 <--- WTF!!!

Cylinder 6 - 170

The guys at Advan said that it could be something in there like dust etc...unlikely but it could.

Also said that it could be the ring not sealing properly or the piston has worn out.

Advised me to drive it off boost and to get it checked out again at E&M.

Called E&M and advised them of the issue.

The first thing they asked was "is it idling rough? Is it misfiring?"

Advised them that it wasn't and they said "no need to bring it in".

I insisted on taking it in and he told me to call next Monday to book it in.

So was the guy trying to not do the test because he owes me new pistons or a new engine?

Or is he right? ie. no misfiring and no rough idle = engine ok?

POST EDITED

Edited by Fujiwara
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175863-got-a-compression-test-done-today/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

So it has warranty?

If thats the case definitely bring it in. Say you've had it compression tested and cylinder 5 has shown up as having issues.

Regardless if its running smooth or not missing if a cylinder is down on compression it has issues and should be sorted under warranty asap.

GGG Proficient

GGG

Posted
Posted

Hi

Overall it does not sound right, check out the warranty conditions. They may only have to cover you for 1 month and thats why they are stalling. Check with governing departments or the car yards warranty company.

good luck

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Yep drop it in ASAP and have them sign a statement stating when the car has been dropped off and what the problem with it is.

Attach a letter from Advan stating the compression test results and say to the workshop it is to be fixed under warranty.

Don't let them stall and push you around; I've been there and done that and learnt the hardway. :dry:

If they state they can't get to it until x date still leave the car there as if that date is after the warranty has ran out your out of luck.

writeoff Mentor

writeoff

Posted
Posted

If you think the company is deliberately stalling you to avoid having to pay for any repairs then write a letter to them stating what the issue is, where it was found and by whom. Then post this as registered mail IMMEDIATELY. This then becomes their first formal notification and they have to sign for it to acknowledge they they received the correspondence. Do not delay doing this as it may be crucial in the worst case scenario where you end up ahving to take them to court. I'm not trying to scare you but it takes very little effort on your behalf, costs stuff all, and can save you heaps of $$$$ in the future. The one thing that I've learnt about our legal system is if it doesn't exist on paper then it simply doesn't exist.

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

thats odd. i thought you would have noticed if the comp was downs that low on 1.

And I wouldn't have thought you'd get 200rwkw out of it at 12psi.

Pays to get it checked out though.

Maybe repeat the test..at the place that are going to do the warranty. Make sure you are there and check they reset the gauge before they put it on the faulty cylinder

Fujiwara Proficient

Fujiwara

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Isnt 170-175 too high for a turbo engine? Shouldn't it be around 150?

Are you sure u didnt buy a non turbo?

Definitely bought a turbo. Has the turbo rush. Guys at Advan didn't say anything about being too high. They just said it's heaps healthy.

Also, fastened the VIN and it is a turbo

post-38029-1184016955_thumb.jpg

could it be a screwd gasket??

Can someone else comment on this?

And can a head gasket cause just one cylinder to be down by 100psi?

yeah. is it a 10year old car?

yeap...10yr old car.

it wouldnt hurt to do a leak down test while you are at it, might give you a little better insite?

was performed when i had the prepurchase inspection.

No issues. Pity they didn't perform a compression test..... :thumbsup:

yeah. make it formal. or simply say yes it is f**ked and running like shit.

Definitely sending an email today (better to track with email)

unusual. the turbo will pop before the motor

How so? And how will i know IF my turbo is about to go kaboom?

thats odd. i thought you would have noticed if the comp was downs that low on 1.

And I wouldn't have thought you'd get 200rwkw out of it at 12psi.

Pays to get it checked out though.

Maybe repeat the test..at the place that are going to do the warranty. Make sure you are there and check they reset the gauge before they put it on the faulty cylinder

So 100psi down on one cylinder would make it impossible for me to get 200kw at the rears?

The guys at Advan say that it COULD be a one off issue. They retried the same cylinder about 4 times though. They said once i start driving around, any "dust" in there could go away and the rings could seal properly IF it was that issue.

Can anyone else comment?

I have the dyno graphs here...excuse the crap quality...taken with my phone

post-38029-1184017969_thumb.jpg

post-38029-1184017931_thumb.jpg

Edited by Fujiwara
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

If you had a leak down test done pre purchase and it was good then you may want to read up on what it is you tested before jumping the gun based on a compression test result.

You will not make 200rwkw on 12psi if one cylinder is bleeding off pressure.

I suggest 3 possibilities, 1) it's a dud compression test, 2) Your initial leak down test was dodgy, 3) you've broken the car between your initial leak down test and the later compression test.

If you take the car back to E&M to be checked and it shows all good, you will be charged for it. If it shows up bad, then make sure you are familiar with your warranty conditions because you had it independently tested, and it was good when it left the lot. You've played with it in the mean time. I think you will lose if it goes before a judge.

Not trying to be harsh, but seriously, find out what you tested pre purchase before going any further.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Im with Dave. Now that you say you had a leakdown prior to purchase and all was good there's not really much you can do.

Have another comp test done; chances are the test was a bit bogus. How many times was each cylinder tested, should be seperately tested at least twice if there's any funky readings.

If it has lost compression all of a sudden it would indicate detonation and smashed ring lands in that cylinder.

It is making 200rwkw on the stock ecu with 12psi so really it is quite highly strung. That small SMIC would heat soak fairly quickly after a hard run, keep your boot in to it and it will rattle its head off. The knock sensors only protect the motor around peak torque, high rpm the ecu ignores it.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

also if it was that low in compression in 1 cylinder you would be using a touch of oil and it would blow a bit of smoke when you got into it a bit. get someone to follow you and then give it a good bootful through first and second. if there is no sign of smoke it make be a dodgy test. if it does blow white smoke then the test is correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...