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Never done it before on a skyline96 gtst

but is the hardest bit the pulley or something else?

just worried the cams may move when i take the belt off( so do i need to hold them in place?)

due to spring preasure?

ive also been quoted under 50$ for a water pump from auto pro but thought water pumps were dear for my car?

Never done it before on a skyline96 gtst

but is the hardest bit the pulley or something else?

just worried the cams may move when i take the belt off( so do i need to hold them in place?)

due to spring preasure?

ive also been quoted under 50$ for a water pump from auto pro but thought water pumps were dear for my car?

i'd be double checking part numbers... that doesn't sound right, mine cost $130 from tweakit (probably not the cheapest but can't be that far off) get a manual if it's ur first time (can buy a CD version on ebay for like $15)

But u just have turn your crank to no.1 TDC then your cams should line up with your 0 degree mark there is one on each cam and i think one on the crank (can't remember)

i'd be double checking part numbers... that doesn't sound right, mine cost $130 from tweakit (probably not the cheapest but can't be that far off) get a manual if it's ur first time (can buy a CD version on ebay for like $15)

But u just have turn your crank to no.1 TDC then your cams should line up with your 0 degree mark there is one on each cam and i think one on the crank (can't remember)

I got the manaul for free ,that guy who sells them is a scam! i know he got his at the same place :) it on the web for free

There is an excellent thread on the STAGEA forum. Covers all the steps to change the timing belt on a RB26 motor , Yes , the crank pulley nut is the hardest thing to undo , its done up to 650ft/lb torque , you may need to make up a pulley lock tool to hold the pulley still while you crack the nut.

There is an excellent thread on the STAGEA forum. Covers all the steps to change the timing belt on a RB26 motor , Yes , the crank pulley nut is the hardest thing to undo , its done up to 650ft/lb torque , you may need to make up a pulley lock tool to hold the pulley still while you crack the nut.

650ft torque do you need a 10 ft extension bar for that or does metal atoms seperate at that force?

are you serious? no torque wrenches will be able to do it up again? i was thinking is it ment to be 165ft pounds?

650ft torque do you need a 10 ft extension bar for that or does metal atoms seperate at that force?

are you serious? no torque wrenches will be able to do it up again? i was thinking is it ment to be 165ft pounds?

i don't know what it actually is, but i can tell you it is far,King tight... took me a while to get mine off...

make sure u lock ur flywheel before attempting to undo it..

isn't it hard to actuall 'pull' the harmonic balancer off as well? ie need a proper puller?

yeh, only costs $20 from supercheap can get cheaper but they didn't have small enough bolts to fit factory Harmonic balancer...

water pumps from an rb30 are dirt cheap - be careful they have less blades that a standard one so they pump less water - the rb30 ones are kind of half way between standard and the n1 water pumps.

I thought the balancer bolt was only 450lb/ft but yes still bloody tight :).

Make sure if you buy bolts for the balancer puller that you get high tensile, at least 8.8 and preferably 12. If the bolts snap you are in a world of trouble getting the balancer off.

Make sure you replace tention spring correctly behind pully as it is ecentric. spring must clip in behind dowel to give correct tention on belt. Get onto VACC for instruction manual for rb25det it will help you a great deal. :)

yeh, only costs $20 from supercheap can get cheaper but they didn't have small enough bolts to fit factory Harmonic balancer...

You actually dont need to buy the bolts because the bolts that hold the cam cover on are the correct size. I did this in mine a few months ago however was a rb20 but i would assume the rb25 would be the same.

And I paid $70 for my water pump from repco.

  • 2 weeks later...
water pumps from an rb30 are dirt cheap - be careful they have less blades that a standard one so they pump less water - the rb30 ones are kind of half way between standard and the n1 water pumps.

I thought the balancer bolt was only 450lb/ft but yes still bloody tight :pirate:.

Make sure if you buy bolts for the balancer puller that you get high tensile, at least 8.8 and preferably 12. If the bolts snap you are in a world of trouble getting the balancer off.

Just buy a new crank bolt from Nissan, the one for my car was only about 10 bucks and you know its going to hold up.

Damn the old bolt was a bitch to get off. 1 metre breaker bar: no good, crank over engine with extention bar under chassis rail: no use. In the end had to use a trucksize rattle gun, which meant radiator and condensor out just to fit the gun down there!

And i went a genuine Holden VL waterpump because it has the no. of blades between std and N1, the car has never overheated. It has a Nissan part number anyway, most likely the same as an R31 RB30E, works perfectly and alot cheaper.

I reccomend taking the radiator out. Makes removing the harmonic balancer alot easier and it will probably save your knuckles from a good skinning.

You can line up a torsion bar so that it's up against one of the rad supports or the ground even, and use the starter motor when cracking the big mofo bolt for the harmonic balancer... some people don't like to do that though..

As someone said, just line of TDC 1, and everything should be fine. Just check the markings about 50 trillion times before you put it all back together.

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