Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, these otomoto turbos are known for being very laggy for the power they produce, wouldnt recommend a VG30 turbo, just an rb25 one and get it highflowed if you wan t anymore, keep the smaller exhaust housing to move the powerband down in the rev range, still make up to about 250rwkw with a highflow

SLIDE RB25 highflow for RB20 would be the best option, price wise as well.

People have made awesome power, and there not THAT laggy..

Check out "Rb20 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results" thread if your thinking about upgrading your turbo, some proven results in there.

Thanks,

Abu

i know someone who is putting 1 of these (pretty sure it was this one and not the 480) onto his rb20. he has it all on but is yet to get it tuned. will let you know how it goes. should be better than the t70 that was on there. that didn't boost till 6000rpm.

For the money i would go a highflow as well.

There is a bit of modification that you have to do to make the KKR fit.

At the end of the day its like everything else and you get what you pay for.

The KKR kits are cheap and there are people making good power with them but they do rely on there warranty to sell the product from what i can gather. For less stress i go a 20/25 highflow from Slide and do it right the first time :thumbsup:

GMB

Laggy, the same as an rb25 turbo, but bigger exhaust housing and different compressor wheel(i believe)more tuned to low boost, so when you put it on an rb20 its laggy and inefficient, heaqps better to go with an rb25 turbo, and get it highflowed if needed

Ive got a 430 on my rb20.

Had to modify the water lines, oil lines bolted up, also had to grind some of the comp cover (it touched the exhaust manifold)

i'm running gtr injectors, microtech lt12s, walbro pump, cooler, straight through exhaust, stock internal motor, no cam gears.

made 210rwkw with 19psi

i've got full boost just at 4000rpm in second, slightly earlier in higher gears.

Ive been running this power for 9 months and not had a problem. The car see's drift track too, so its thrashed fair good :laugh:

my 2c worth

Due to personal health issue's i am no longer making the highflows sorry guys.

Hopefully soon when things are sorted out i can go back to them but for now just trying to get better :(

Sorry to hear mate.

Your health is more important and hopefully you recover soon and get well..

Good luck, and take care.

Hope to see those high flows in the future :)

Thanks,

Abu

  • 1 year later...

hey mate,

i just put a moc kkr430 on my r32 rb20det and they have WAY to much lag, if you gonna bomb shit outta your motor then ok, but for minor upgrades i would say go a T04E, thats what i'm getting now for mine.

but it is fun when you finally hit 4000rpm and full boost...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...