Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been trying Shell V Power Racing in my GTR and GTS-T with very good results.

I have had a noticeable increase in mid-range power and torque that have made both cars more driveable and more responsive.

The best thing is the fuel consumption - 11 litres per 100 km in the GTS-T and 12.5 litres per 100 km in the GTR. This is amazing as the GTS-T normally is in the 13 to 15 bracket and the GTR has never got less than 15 before and often gets closer to 20 when you get a bit serious. This is a direct comparison for my daily commute to Sydney from Wollongong so it is a real comparison.

The other difference is that both cars seem to be louder in induction noise. They seem to be sucking in a lot more air to match the fuel to the point where I need to put some insulation in the air box for the pods to quieten them down a bit.

What experience have you had with Shell V Power Racing – is it as good as mine?

The only problem is the price $154.9 per litre - but if it goes this much better what the heck.

:laughing-smiley-014:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176457-shell-v-power-racing-100-ron/
Share on other sites

for some reason, i had the opposite effect, i get better mileage using bp ultimate than vpower. The one time i tried power racing, i got an amazing 270kms from 50 ltrs (ultimate is aorund 400kms from 50ltrs) - i have no idea why those figures...but it just didnt go well with the car.

Prior to trying V Power Racing I got the best results from BP Ultimate.

V Power is 98 RON and available everywhere, V Power Racing is 100 RON and only available a selected locations in capital cities. I do not think that normal V Power is as good as BP Ultimate.

Well i have been using it for about 4 weeks now and i think it runs really well, but in the last week my fuel pump is making a whistling noise on start up and when the car is cold. Not sure if the ethanol fuel is to blame.

i've been using bp ultimate for about 4 months - getting about 240kms per tank

switched to v-power racing last week - got almost 300km out of her.

BUT - on cold starts, I noticed yesterday that when i'm idling, i can hear the engine stuttering every few seconds. once the engine's warmed up, i couldn't hear it anymore. it didn't really drop in revs that much, and didn't stall. was quite disconcerting tho

it might but completely unrelated to the switch in fuel, but it's a big coincidence

i'll switch back to bp ultimate this week and see what happens

Experience with it - can never find the stuff. It's at barely any shells and some of the ones that have the pump for it are always out of service... Didn't seem to drive all that different to tell the truth. I should prob try a full tank though and see if it makes a difference to economy.

Hi guys, Newbie to the site, and Skylines, just picked up an R32 GTST..

I ran v-Power Racing in my last car and was looking for some information on how people found it in there skylines.

I have been searching for a bit more information on shell v-Power Racing 100RON fuel and came across this test performed by MoTeC.

For the bloke up there V-Power Racing is 5% ethanol..

The test was run on an EVO motor in varing state of modifications from bog stock to what I would call lightly modified (computer and Boost increase)

Showed that v-power racing had an increase in torque above all other petrols in all states of tune, and showed that the more you pushed the tune (increase in boost and ignition) the better the petrol performed.

you can see the indept test that i am rabbiting on about here:

http://www.motec.com.au/fueltest/index.htm

Seems like a great product from shell. I've used a couple of tanks now in the 32 and seems more responsive on the road and uses a bit less fuel too..

For all those that might be having trouble locating a site that stock the stuff.. check out here:

http://www.shell.com/home/page/au-en/shell...fuelfinder.html

Edited by HoBi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...