Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Better off with N/A than getting a "master power" turbo.

if its cheap, its cheap for a reason :blink:

Actually don't know anyone who has had a problem with one yet.... couple of high profile cars in NZ have been running them hard fine. Don't know much about that particular unit however.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3229946
Share on other sites

T series wheels are dinosaurs as are T4 turbines . If you want to stay with a bush bearing Garrett based turbocharger I think you are better off looking into Garretts GT bush bearing turbos . Quite a bit cheaper that their GT ball bearing turbos and better overall than

the old T3 and T4 based turbos/centre sections . They are based on the GT32/35/37/40 etc turbines .

Cheers A .

BTW what sort of power are you after on what engine ?

Edited by discopotato03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3229985
Share on other sites

T series wheels are dinosaurs as are T4 turbines . If you want to stay with a bush bearing Garrett based turbocharger I think you are better off looking into Garretts GT bush bearing turbos . Quite a bit cheaper that their GT ball bearing turbos and better overall than

the old T3 and T4 based turbos/centre sections . They are based on the GT32/35/37/40 etc turbines .

Cheers A .

BTW what sort of power are you after on what engine ?

my power goal is around about 260-280rwkws i already have a cast iron T4 flange HKS manifold with a HKS 50mm waste gate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230677
Share on other sites

Better off with N/A than getting a "master power" turbo.

if its cheap, its cheap for a reason :)

???

do you think Master Power turbos are cheap or something?

Master Power was founded in 1966 by Nelson Borghetti. Old skool rally cars used their turbos, they are NOt your average chinese copy made in taiwan crap cast turbos.

You are mis informed R31nismoid

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230745
Share on other sites

If your HKS manifold is the one for the RB20/25DET then yes it has the T4 flange BUT the outlet ports and stud holes are split T3 pattern . If it were me I'd look at a divided housing GT3271 or possibly a GT3576 if I could find a suitable A/R housing for the 3576 . I think the 50mm gate will be too big and was under the impression that manifold used the HKS 40mm external gate ?

Will get back later about other twin scroll turbo options because there may be a few useful things in the TA34 range .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3230934
Share on other sites

If your HKS manifold is the one for the RB20/25DET then yes it has the T4 flange BUT the outlet ports and stud holes are split T3 pattern . If it were me I'd look at a divided housing GT3271 or possibly a GT3576 if I could find a suitable A/R housing for the 3576 . I think the 50mm gate will be too big and was under the impression that manifold used the HKS 40mm external gate ?

Will get back later about other twin scroll turbo options because there may be a few useful things in the TA34 range .

Cheers A .

cool sounds good thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176572-turbo-specs/#findComment-3231046
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...